H&L Mechanical Services

 

Friday 25 June 2021 – H&L Mechanical Services

Well that was probably the chilliest night we have had so far on this trip and in Broome no less!  We all had a bit of a lie in (by our standards) and then the boys got busy setting themselves up as H&L Mechanical Services with tarpaulins spread and tools and jacks at the ready.

After seeing the Goldstream jacked up at an alarming tilt so the boys could get under and replace the coils, Jenny and Miranda made themselves scarce and took off to the laundry.  Although I had done a load of clothes yesterday there were sheets and towels and all the forgotten items of clothing to be done today including the bag of wet clothes and shoes from Tunnel Creek.

We then did a bit of ‘admin’ sorting out Marble Bar Caravan Park and a possible booking for Matso’s and I did some blogging while Miranda did research on a replacement fridge as the one in the Goldstream was also a victim of the corrugations and broken suspension.

The boys had successfully replaced one coil and, having sorted out their technique, the second side took them half the time to do and we were all standing back admiring their handiwork by late morning.  The washing, by the way, was also completed by this time as the strong winds (which have not dropped since yesterday) and the sunshine made it a perfect drying day.  Jenny had even had to do a mad dash across the CP when the empty laundry bag took flight!  That being enough exercise for us for the day we retired to Matso’s for restorative food and beverages.   Here we were extremely lucky as we had rung and tried to book a table earlier only to be told they weren’t taking any more bookings for the day but that we were welcome to drop in and take our chances.  Our chances turned out to be extremely good as we scored a nice table down in the courtyard and a lovely waitress called Theresa who couldn’t ply us with drinks fast enough and, although busy, was happy to chat and take photos for us.  We couldn’t figure out her accent and eventually discovered she was German (we had guessed a mixture of Dutch and Irish) so we thanked her with many Dankes on our way out as she had ensured we didn’t ever have an empty glass and chased up our food order when she thought it was taking a bit long.

                                    

Jenny, having displayed her normal koala habits and sat on one drink, was then pressed into service as chauffeur in the Discovery and it took a little while to work out the turn dial gear box and that you can just turn the car off at the end and it will automatically put itself into park etc.  We drove to the  Kimberley Caravan and Camping store where H&M bought a new Yeti esky as they couldn’t get the Engel they wanted and L bought some new outdoor shoes.  Then on to the bookshop as L had finished his book and then we decided we hadn’t seen quite enough of the industrial areas of Broome and we should head back there.   All good though as it is where the Moontide Distillery is and this time, as well as the gin tastings, we were given a little tour of the distillery and given a briefing as to how gin is made.  Amusing to see the still they use, which has been imported from Holland, is called an ‘i-still”!

After the tastings, H&M bought a tasting paddle and L&J had a lemon, lime and bitters each and then we decided we may as well buy another bottle of gin and bottle of the aniseed spirit as we had finished both of the mini bottles on the GRR and these ones can go home with us and get us through the next few wintery months in Perth!

Headed back to the van and then over the road to the bottle shop and the general store for bread and milk  We will probably do a big shop at Woolies tomorrow afternoon.

We packed the picnic hamper with cheese, dip and crackers and headed down to Town Beach for the Staircase to the Moon.  The markets were on again tonight (we didn’t need to go last night after all!) and it was a lot busier this time because of said moon and staircase.  We sat on the grass with our cheese and crackers and although still cool, it wasn’t quite as bracing as last night and there were a lot more people to shelter us from the wind all lined up along the water’s edge waiting for the spectacle to begin.  It had a bit of Australia Day Fireworks vibe to it and there was the same “OOH” and rush to the front to take photos when the moon popped up over the horizon and started its red trajectory up with the resultant reddish reflections across the mud flats making the ‘Staircase’ event everyone flocks to see.

It was very pretty and quite spectacular and we pushed and shoved with the best of them to get our requisite grainy photos and then made our way homewards only stopping at the hot donut stall (no queue as everyone was moon gazing) on the way out.

We cooked up Miranda’s frozen spaghetti sauce and pasta for a late dinner and then sat around chatting and looking at maps as we need to start thinking about the next leg of the trip which will include Marble Bar, Karijini and Millstream-Chichester NP.

 

Larry the Charmer

 

Thursday 24 June 2021 – Larry the Charmer

Another early start for H&M as they wanted to get to Derby to see if they could get more substantial repairs done to their van.  We took our time and did an early morning walk into Windjana Gorge.  As we just managed to beat a tour bus group into the Gorge we walked quickly as far as we needed to and hence managed to spot one freshwater crocodile in the water before the noisy hoards arrived and scared him off.

Jenny spent quite a long time trying to get a close up photo of the tiny birds shooting along the shoreline.  Larry called them the Red Bull Birds as they darted along with little bursts of energy meaning that just when they stood still enough for focus in the camera lens they’d dash off again.  Hence it was very hard to get a non-blurry bird photo.  I must try and work out what species they were – INSERT HERE!!

Having fulfilled our quota of nature for the morning it was back to the van and then back to the Gibb River Road but the nice western section which is all tarmac save for a 9km final stretch of bounce.

We made Derby about 10am and saw H&M’s unhitched van at the auto electricians on the way into town so knew they were in Derby somewhere.  They had managed to talk the auto sparkies into fixing their van today so they will have a chill day exploring the delights of Derby and we pushed on for Broome after getting fuel for the car and hot chips and drinks for us.

As we were back on the bitumen Jenny drove stretch from Derby to Broome with the only excitement being the requirement to overtake a three trailer cattle truck.  Not too difficult though as we radioed the truck and he let me know when it was safe to overtake so all good.

We got to the caravan park in Broome and were dismayed to see they had given us a shell grit site on the opposite corner to the shell grit site we had with Kate two years ago.  Right towards the bottom of the list of preferable sites in other words.  To add insult to injury when we pulled up next to it the adjoining sites already have vans on them even though we had expressly booked two sites next to each other back in December last year. 

Larry went back up to the office and worked his usual charm on the Manager to wangle two sites adjacent to each other around the corner from where we had been by explaining that our friends were having issues with their van and we were helping out with storing food/cooking dinners for them etc (only slight truth stretch really).  His charms worked as the Manager spent about 15 minutes playing caravan Tetris and we were able to move to a much better site with an empty one next to it.

We had received texts from Hendrik asking if we could try and source new coils for their van in Broome as no-one was answering his phone calls so after a quick set up on the new site it was back in the car and back to the Broome Industrial Area to see if Kimberley Trailer Parts had the required coils.  Jenny sat in the car while Larry popped in to make some enquiries and thought Larry must not have put the brake on properly as the kind of moved around and ‘settled’ a bit oddly.  Nothing too serious though and it stopped after about 10 seconds.  As Larry was taking a while Jenny rang Kate and had a chat and then caught up with a bit of Facebook having been deprived for the last couple of weeks.  Amazingly the first post to pop up was by ABC Kimberley asking “DID YOU FEEL THAT?” and reporting a minor earth tremor in Broome a few minutes before.  Well that explains the weird ‘settling’ of the Jeep a bit earlier!!

Larry came out having charmed yet another person into dropping tools and helping him with Hendrik’s trailer part requirement with two bright new coils for the Goldstream.  Not quite the right part but they will do the job and that is the main thing as we still have another couple of weeks of rough roads through the Pilbara coming up.

Headed back to the van via Macca’s for a quick burger as by this time it was getting on for 3.30pm and all we had eaten all day was the hot chips in Derby.  J did a load of washing and L some setting up and maintenance on the van before we headed down to Town Beach to the night markets.  This was a new experience, firstly because the markets have moved to the newly upgraded foreshore park and secondly because there was an icy wind blowing so that it felt about 14 degrees.  A significant contrast to the other times we have been at these markets with Ben in 2016 and Kate in 2019 and had sat eating satay and listening to live music on balmy, summer evenings.  This time we sat huddled over our satay in the shelter of one of the market tents and gobbled it down quickly so that we get back to the warmth of the car!

We had bought extra Pad Thai and chicken with noodles for H&M and they made the caravan park about 7pm.  So whilst they were setting up J went up to the camp kitchen and heated up their noodles and then we were all happy to sit down and chill and catch up on our respective days.  They have brakes and suspension again now so their van is now a lot more roadworthy and tomorrow the boys will have a go at installing the new coils.

A nice hot shower in the ablutions was a well deserved end to the day.

Up the creek without a paddle

 

Wednesday 23 June 2021 – Up the creek without a paddle

It rained overnight to the point where L had to get up and ‘tilt’ the awning so that the water could run off to one side.  He almost did a Jenny and tilted it so that all the water tipped over him though – funny how you just don’t think that clearly about that sort of thing at 3am.  So it was a different type of morning in the Kimberley with a wet and muddy pack up instead of a dry and dusty one!

H&M left first thing with the plan of getting to the Over the Range repair place at opening time and hence be first in the queue.  We followed along behind at a more leisurely pace after saying goodbye to our new friends Greg and Lynn and exchanging phone numbers etc.  They are coming back to WA in December as their son is competing in the Busselton Triathalon so hopefully we can catch up with them again then and find out how the rest of their holiday went.

We caught up with H&M at Over the Range and Neville and his offsider Justin were pretty confident they could weld something together to keep them on the road.  The only problem being that it might be a lengthy process as their first priority is tyre repairs/sales and so they would do H&M’s job when they weren’t dealing with tyres.  H&M decided to unhitch and spend the time visiting Galvan’s Gorge and Adcock Gorge.  Having done Adcock gorge previously when we had been stuck at Over the Range with the Kokoda in 2016 we decided to push on for Windjanna Gorge campground and claim a good spot for the two vans.

So we pushed on with a brief stop at Imitintji.  We arrived just before two busloads of school kids going on an excursion from Mt Barnett school to Derby so that was good timing!  We then played bus relay with the school buses until the Windjana Gorge turn off with just a brief taste of bitumen before we did so.

The unsealed road into Windjanna is pretty good though with only small corrugations and consequently there were a lot of still clean cars and caravans at the campground.  Out set up well and truly showed us up as having come ‘the hard way’!  We set up and saved a place next to us for H&M with tables and chairs as it is likely they won’t arrive til late afternoon. Toasted ham and cheese sandwiches with the last of the bread from Kununurra – it has lasted surprisingly well but toasted is the only way to eat it at this stage – and then donned bathers and wading shoes for our excursion to Tunnel Creek.

We got about 10 minutes down the road before remembering it’s called Tunnel Creek for a reason so a quick backtrack to the van for the head torches and we were on our way.  The trip was a bit longer than we remembered it and Jenny felt that she had well and truly been thrown about in the car over rough roads for long enough by the time we got there.  It was still a cloudy and cool day so the idea of immersing ourselves in the creek in the tunnel  wasn’t as welcome an idea as it might otherwise have been but L assured J that the people coming out seemed only wet to their waists so we entered the tunnel confidently.

The first creek crossings were fairly shallow but then there was a warning sign to say we had to swim (!) so into the icy depths we plunged.  At this point in the tunnel there was nobody else around so it was a bit disconcerting to swim into the icy depths and not really be able to see the opposite bank.  Jenny did lots of loud splashing to remind the local freshwater crocodiles not to come any closer.  Larry was amused that Jenny swam with the Go-Pro above her head like a telescope even though the damn thing is waterproof!!

It was an exciting experience and truly spectacular with a waterfall flowing into the cave at one point and lots of the cave roof dripping and forming new stalactites.    We didn’t see any crocodiles and, as we took our time, it was late afternoon by the time we left the cave and we pretty much had the whole place to ourselves.

Back to the van with all our wet clothes and shoes in plastic bags to be dealt with at a later date.  We had hot showers to warm up and then tried calling H&M to see where they were at.  Good timing as they were literally pulling into the gate so we directed them to their spot and then prepared them a welcome gin and tonic while they dashed down to Windjanna gorge to see it in the setting sun.  It was quite spectacular with the setting sun reflecting off the rock faces.

We cooked them a marinated lamb roast and veg for dinner.  It certainly seems to have worked in terms of taking turns cooking dinner with it being our turn to cook every time they have had a long day with the last thing they want to think about is making dinner.

We sat and chilled after dinner and H cracked open a bottle of Scotch so we were all quite chilled by bed time.

 

An early morning hike

 

Tuesday 22 June 2021 – An early morning hike

After our hot and thirsty walk to Mitchell Falls, Jenny had determined that the next long walk we did should be done earlier in the day.  It was quite a chilly morning though so starting off a one and a half hour walk with a swim across the Barnett River was a bit of challenge!  Greg and Lynn saw us off as they had decided they would wait another hour or so before doing their swim but us intrepid travellers headed off about 8am and, whilst the river was cold it wasn’t that bad and it was actually quite pleasant walking across the sunny rocks in wet clothes and they were nearly dry by the time we reached Manning Gorge.

The falls were flowing much more strongly than 5 years ago when we were here with Ben and the water was quite cool but we were warm enough after our walk and rock clamber down to the water’s edge to soon brave the water.  We swam across and under the waterfall to the little rock ledge we had found last time and enjoyed being in the moment. 

Larry tested Jenny’s nerves a little by clambering half way up the water fall and doing a bombie back into the water with Go-Pro in hand.  J is still not sure whether she was more nervous about the survival of her husband or the Go-Pro!!  Luckily both resurfaced and we headed back on to the rocks for some soaking up of sun and scenery.  H&M headed back and L&J stayed a little longer rock happing and checking out the other minor waterfalls over the rocks before heading back themselves.  It was much warmer on the way back and J wished she had had a second swim before walking so that her clothes were a bit wetter.  We were stunned to see, heading in to the gorge at about 11am (by which time it was quite a bit hotter) a young couple with nothing with them – no water bottles, back packs or towels.  Not a smart move and they will have to rely on the kindness of strangers if they run into trouble.

By the time we got back to the Barnett river crossing we were quite hot and therefore happy to swim across again.  H&M were still in the water relaxing and chatting to other campers so we stayed in the water with them for a bit longer and then we all headed back to the vans.

L&J ate a late lunch of left over pizzas and then we all lolled in our chairs before deciding that a nap wouldn’t go astray and our respective camps all got very quiet save for gentle snoring for an hour or so.

Another campfire this evening with the remainder of our wood and Greg and Lynn contributed some compressed wood logs so we had another good fire and plenty of coals for potatoes.  H&M cooked up steaks and veggies and another very nice dinner was had.  During the evening the clouds rolled in and there was thunder in the distance and by the time we went to bed and few fat drops had fallen so we were sure to pack up lots of things and put the remainder under the awning.

Old and new friends

 

Monday 21 June 2021 – Old and new friends

In the end we were all up early and therefore we all left together which was probably just as well as we could once again follow behind and keep an eye on the Goldstream.  We stopped at the turn off at the end of the Kalumburu Road to find the ratchet strap holding the suspension together had already snapped so we tied it all back together and continued on.

Our phones started pinging outside Gibb River Station so we pulled over at the gate and made some calls etc.  Quite a few other cars also pulled over to do the same but in retrospect we probably should have just driven into the station as Greg and Lynn told us later that they had done so and the reception was better and they could sit at the shop with a cold drink and green grass around them and make their calls.  Rang B&K and checked they are all good and then it was decided that we would continue on while H&M stayed a bit longer and continued making calls for parts and waiting for return calls etc.

Greg and Lynn over took us just before Mount Barnett Road house and we radioed to say what we and H&M were up to.   After we had fuelled up and checked in, we headed down into the campground and just as we were manoeuvring into a site, Lynn called us on the radio to say they had found an ideal site for the six of us.  We headed on down to where they were and she was right, it was a large and shady area with the only disadvantage being that it was a pretty long hike to the ablution block.  Not so much a worry for L&J with an onboard toilet and shower though!

                                                    

H&M turned up shortly afterwards and then it was time for lunch and a little sit and relax.  In the afternoon we wandered down to the creek for a swim and were a little startled at first when the little fish started banging on our legs eating at our scaly bits of skin!  Still, you pay good money in Bali for this to happen so we soon got used to it and just treated it as part of our ablutions!

Back to camp and Larry unloaded the emergency beer into the Waeco and then absolutely made Greg and Lynne’s day/month/year by giving them the 5 beers that wouldn’t fit.  Lynn showed her thanks by preparing an absolutely yummy cheese platter with nuts, chorizo etc and a very nice evening was had.  J & L made pizzas so it was a little bit of getting up and down constantly as we could only make one small pizza at a time but they were very yummy and the pizza dough worked well . 

Even though it was a very pleasant evening and good company we were still all in bed and probably all fast asleep by about 8.30pm!!

 

At least we have beer

 

Sunday 20 June 2021 – At least we have beer

An early start and we drove slowly south towards Drysdale, H&M in the lead and L&J going behind so we could keep an eye on their van and the suspension and be there to help if anything alarming happened.

The road was no better than a few days ago but we both made it one piece back to Drysdale and went in to ask about any repairs they could help with.  The answer was no as they are not qualified welders or mechanics and so there are liability issues for them in touching anyone’s van so the suggestion was to tie it all up with ratchet straps and soldier on towards the Over the Range Tyre repair place further along the Gibb.

Miranda and Jenny did loads of washing whilst the boys did a further patch up job on the Goldstream and then we all had hot showers in the mid afternoon and got good and clean. 

Our friends from South Australia with whom we had shared our campfire at Ellenbrae turned up and told us they had the tragedy of running out of beer and were off the bar as soon as it opened before they developed the shakes!  After our fairly shitty day we thought that sounded like a very good idea and so the six of us headed up to the bar and spent a very pleasant couple of hours talking and laughing.

We left when we got hungry but Greg and Lynn were determined to keep drinking until closing time!  We headed back to the vans for Miranda’s yummy steak and onion casserole which she had cooked at lunchtime and left in her ThermoPot to slow cook over the afternoon.  Very yummy.

Once again an early night as H&M want to leave early and get to Gibb River Station where there is phone reception and they can start ordering parts and seeing about getting repairs done in Broome.

No bumps today

 

Saturday 19 June 2021 – No bumps today

Today is a chill day.  That means we get to stay around camp, relax, do some odd jobs, swim and eat and the best bit?  NO BUMPS!

So a cooked breakfast and then time to do some cleaning and maintenance on the van and car.  It was about this time that things took a serious turn for the worst when it was discovered that the reason things were disintegrating inside H&M’s van was because their shock absorbers were cactus as well as one of their brakes.  It was tied up as much as practical in the middle of nowhere and we will have to nurse the van back to Drysdale and see if they can do any repairs there.

After lunch we went for a drive to the nearby Aboriginal cultural site where there are numerous rock paintings.  You can see why this area would have some spiritual significance to the first people as the rock formations certainly have a presence and have a bit of a “Picnic at Hanging Rock” vibe to them.  Hendrik had to get a tight hold of Miranda because of this!

Back to camp and we were hot enough to don bathers and walk back down to the King Edward River for another swim and a cold beverage whilst floating on our pool noodles.

Back to camp and Jenny anxiously watched the clock until it was four o’clock and we were allowed to have a campfire as this was the night she had been promised we could burn lots of wood!  Hendrik did an old fashioned fire (ie matches and dry grass cuttings instead of L’s blow torch) and we got a hot fire going and made loads of coals.  Then it was on with the camp oven filled with honey mustard chicken and jacket potatoes.  Miranda’s bit of left over boiled rice and worked a treat at thickening up the sauce towards the end of the cook.

A yummy dinner and we finished it off with marshmallows before starting a bit of a pack up so we can make an early start for Drysdale and hopefully get H&M’s van looked at there.

Mitchell Falls

 Friday 18 June 2021 – Mitchell Falls

Today was a bucket list day for H&M and L&J were happy to check out the Mitchell Falls actually flowing as opposed to the 2019 dribble.  What we weren’t looking forward to was the 2 hour drive each way and the quality of the road didn’t disappoint.  We were all happy to stop after an hour of juddering at the lookout to stretch the kinks out of our neck and back and to absorb the sounds of silence.  The running repairs to H’s radiator hose seem to be doing the trick so we all hopped back in the car and tackled the next hour of bangs and jolts.

We got to the Mitchell Falls campground still in one piece and checked in with the Helispirit team and had our weigh in and briefing session.  Jenny and Miranda were both happy to jump on the scales with our heavy back packs and know that the read out was screened from everyone but the very tactful lady behind the counter.  (We were going to blame the heavy backpacks and hiking boots otherwise!!)

We had a quick cup of tea and slice of left over apple damper for a morning tea before we started and then headed off on the walk up to the falls.  At the information boards Jen asked Laz if he had remembered to get the sandwiches out of the Waeco.  L had but Miranda hadn’t so H did a quick sprint back to the cars whilst the other 3 meandered slowly on to Little Merten Falls.  These were flowing this year as opposed to 2019.  We had heard that there was a waterfall you walked under and could find rock paintings so we continued on the path until we found a side path down to the bottom of the falls.  It was absolutely beautiful and nature’s air conditioner was on in full force with a gentle breeze wafting the cooling spray and air of the waterfall over us.  Hendrik and Larry were adventurous and clambered up the rocks and under the waterfall and searched for rock paintings whilst Miranda and Jen stayed at the bottom and tried out all the different photo functions on their phones to take artistic photos of the falls and green pool below.  Some of the slow-mo functions made it look really spekky.

                                                        

Larry was acting as time keeper today as the helicopter was booked to collect us from the top of the falls at 2pm so it was quick march, and not much stopping, all the way along to the falls which was a bit of a shame as it was hot and thirsty work and it would have been nice to be able to stop and rest occasionally and truly appreciate our surrounds, particularly when we reached Big Merten Falls.  As it was Jen had to keep going and find a way across the rocks above the falls (this had all been completely dry two years ago and much easier to negotiate) and leave it to Larry to take photos and truly appreciate the amazing scenery.

It was the middle of the day by now and really hot and dry so the last bit of the walk, which required scrambling over hot rocks was not very pleasant.  As time was slipping away from us, we figured it was best to get as close to the helicopter collection point as possible before we had lunch and a swim so, just as Jenny thought she would get a rest, there was the Mitchell River to negotiate first.  The good thing about this was that you got to take off your hiking boots and wade across.  The bad bit was that apart from 5 poles spaces about 10 metres apart you had to negotiate a fast flowing, knee deep stream with incredibly slippery rocks underfoot.  We all managed to slip and wet various parts of ourselves and Jenny, who had given Larry her hiking boots to carry in the belief that was a better bet in keeping them dry, was dismayed to see L give them a good dunking whilst keeping his own perfectly dry. 

We reached the other side and finally were able to relax and eat our sandwiches.  Jenny, who was past caring about food, just fell into the water and let her core temperature come down instead.  After about 10 minutes, the whip was cracked again and it was time to re-don the hiking boots and walk around to the viewing areas to view the Mitchell Falls in all their splendour.  They are still flowing well over four of the five ledges so it was a spectacular sight and well worth the slog to get there. We had time to go “Ooh” and “Wow” and get photos and selfie evidence that we had been there and then we had to hot foot it to the helicopters.  We got there with 2 minutes to spare but the Helispirit guy was already calling our names so we walked straight down to the helicopter and piled in.  It ended up that Miranda was on an edge with no door and Jenny in the middle so Jen held onto her tightly as the helicopter banked around to get good views of the falls from both sides.

                                                

                                                

                                                

                                                    

It was a pretty quick flight back to base which just made a mockery of the hours it had taken us on foot and then it was back to the cars for a nice cold drink from the Waeco and a quick toilet break and then back in the cars for the 2 hour slog back to the vans. We had to pass a tow truck who had just collected a camper trailer with broken suspension that we had passed this morning and he asked us if there was anywhere coming up where he could turn around.  Unfortunately the track won’t allow him to turn around until he gets down to the Mitchell Falls campground so unfortunately he will have to add a few more kilometres on to an already long trip back to Kununurra or Broome.

We made camp by about 4.30pm and then it was time to sit and relax and have some pre dinner drinks.  Miranda cooked up yummy chicken kievs, rice and veggies for dinner and the evening passed with much hilarity and tears of laughter so we either drank too much or were over tired or maybe both.

Early to bed and quickly to sleep as it had been a big day.  Tomorrow is a “chill day” at camp so a sleep in will be well earned.

 

Kalumburu Track

 

Thursday 17 June 2021 – Kalumburu Track

After a pleasant night at Drysdale we had a reasonable sleep but the campground was busy early in the morning so we couldn’t sleep in. Still we didn’t have far to go so we didn’t hurry packing up. After refilling the water tanks on the vans we set off at 8:30. The good road near Drysdale didn’t last long and between the good sections there were some very poor sections. It got to the stage where the road narrowed to single lane and looked like a station access track. We passed another van on the side of the road with what looked like collapsed suspension on one side.

After an hour an half H&M who were in front pulled over into a rest area type parking spot and we followed them in. The important task was to hunt some firewood which was easily found. Larry cut the branches into smaller pieces, put them into a spare firewood bag and strapped it to the van behind the stone guard.  After another half an hour of bad corrugations we reached the turn off into the Mitchell River National Park and Munurrra campground which is about 7 kms down the track. We had to cross the King Edward river but it wasn’t very deep so all good.

Just before we came to the self check in area a truck squeezed past us with a Prado and a Concept van on the back of it. The Kalumburu road/track looks to have claimed another victim. We found the spot where we stayed in 2019 but there was a tent in it and this year they hadn’t slashed the grass back as far so you couldn’t really fit 2 vans in there. We did spot another site just before it so we did a loop and came back to it and the site easily accommodated the 2 vans and cars and, with a centrally located fire pit, was a perfect spot.

                                              

After lunch it was time to wander down to the river bank and we enjoyed bobbing around on the pool noodles and a quiet drink. Very pleasant but it was soon time to do the 5 min walk back to the vans soH&L could look at the Disco for the coolant leak.  Hendrik had cleaned the area in the morning so when Larry looked at it the spray marks were evident and he felt the radiator hose and there was a small split. It was from the hose rubbing on the plastic engine cover.

                                            

We put some silicon on it and will let it dry overnight and tape it like a bandage and that hopefully will hold until the hose can be replaced when back into civilisation or Perth if the temporary repair holds.

A fire was started but we didn’t want to go too big as Saturday night is the big fire night. We had just enough coals to cook the spuds in foil and a spiced apple damper for dessert. Hamburgers were the main course and after all that food pretty much everyone went into a food coma.

An early night as we have a big day tomorrow.

Not so Drysdale

 

Wednesday 16 June 2021 – Not so Drysdale

We didn’t rush off this morning as we didn’t have terribly far to go so time for a cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs with cream again (as it’s getting close to its used by date).  We were still on the road by 8ish though and continued our journey westwards.

The road between Ellenbrae and the Kalumburu Road turn off was actually pretty good – recently graded and a good top coat of light grey road base and very few corrugations so that even we skimmed along faster than usual albeit probably still averaging about 65km/h.

We caught up H&M at the rest stop at the Kalumburu Road turn off and just managed to pull in ahead of an APT bus so that we didn’t have to queue behind 20 people to use the toilets.  Mind you, if we’d been 10 minutes later we could have at least taken advantage of the toilet paper roll they left behind!

We checked the cars and caravans over and one of the APT passengers pointed out that one of the shackles on the back of our caravan had nearly worked its way loose so that was a good pick up and Larry just removed both of them and put them away as we are hoping we won’t need the van to be towed backwards out of anything!

Hendrik is a bit worried about his warning light that keeps coming on telling him he is low on coolant so that is something we will have to investigate further over the next day.  He had checked it before leaving on the trip and it has only come on since we’ve been on the dirt so we are hoping some indicator gauge has jiggled loose except that the coolant level had dropped when we checked it at Ellenbrae.

We turned on the Kalumburu Road with some trepidation as this road is notoriously rough and a caravan killer.  Well let’s just say some of it was good and some of it was really, really bad.  We passed on dead New Age caravan on the side of the road with a broken axle and obviously abandoned until a tow truck can come and pick it up.

We both made it Drysdale River Station with a certain degree or relief, checked in and headed into the campsite.  We then opened up the vans to check for damage from the first section of really rough road.  Our van wasn’t too bad except for a couple of rogue screws on the ground and some semi mashed bananas, but H&M’s oven had pretty much fallen to pieces so some thinking and discussion on how best to deal with it was required over lunch of ham, cheese and mountain bread for H&M and banana and honey sandwiches for L&J.

After lunch some repairs, cleaning and checking of cars and vans occurred before we decided the camp ground was just a little too hot and dusty and a swim was in order.  Larry knew that nearby there was a place to swim called “Miner’s Pool” about 5km away from the station so we grabbed bathers and towels and piled into the Disco (the Jeep still being hitched up) and headed off.  We didn’t quite know where we were going but presumed that there may be a sign.  We made it to the Drysdale River crossing where there were a few people camping (possibly illegally) and splashing around in the creeks but we didn’t think that was Miner’s Pool so kept driving for the required 5km but, thinking it couldn’t be right as we were driving away from the river, chucked a u-turn and headed back the way we had come. 

                                                                    

We went over the river crossing again and then Larry spotted a road that looked relatively well travelled off to the left so we headed off down there.  There was no one else around and we didn’t really know if we were on the right track but there were lots of tyre tracks and the road looked well used so we figured it must lead somewhere.  Sure enough, after a few k’s it turned and headed down to the river and there was an area to park and a path leading down the water’s edge.  It was very quiet and peaceful but our smugness in finding this hidden gem was short lived when, after about 5 minutes, two other cars rocked up.  They were part of a 4WD club and had got back from the Mitchell falls campground early as the group leader had been stressing about roads etc.  So they all headed in for a swim but we ended up just paddling our toes on the edge.

Back to camp and we decided to walk up to the bar and have a drink and see about booking dinner for Sunday night as a sign in the laundry had suggested booking ahead was a good idea.  Alas, we were told chef has one night off a week and he was taking Sunday night off as there would be no tour groups in that day so we will have to plan a meal for that night instead.  It’s no biggie as both Miranda and I have extra “just in case” meals in the freezers but it still would have been nice to have a night off from cooking.

Still, tonight was Jen and Larry’s night off from cooking as Miranda had baked a big lasagne a few weeks ago and it had been defrosted and was ready to be cooked.  Fortunately, as H&M’s oven is still looking terminal at this stage, it was just the right size to fit in our marine cooker so, although it took a bit longer to heat through, it was still cooked and ready to eat by a decent dinner time and I think we just about managed to polish the whole thing off!

An early night after another big, and slightly stressful day, and tomorrow we have to tackle the other half of the Kalumburu Road and apparently that’s no walk in the park either with quite a few people in the camp ground having a bitch about the state of the road and the damage it has done to their cars and vans.

Heading west

 

Tuesday 15 June 2021 – Heading west

We have gone as far east as we are going on this trip and this morning we hitched up and started heading west so I guess we are now homeward bound (albeit with another diversion north in a couple of days).  The first hour was easy going on the bitumen and we stopped at the El Questro turn off to let down the tyres, take off the weight distribution hitch spring bars etc and then before you could sing “Shake, rattle and roll” we were back on the dirt.  The Pentecost River crossing seemed  even lower than when we came across last week (looked like the tide was going out) and H&M were so close behind us I didn’t have a chance to leap out and film them coming across. Miranda says she got good footage of us bumping across from behind though!

Up to the Cockburn Range lookout where we stopped for a morning tea break then continued on our way.  My personal opinion is that this is probably the most unattractive section of the GRR with an ugly, grey, rocky road and scrubby, usually burnt out bushland to either side.  We put the talking book on (“The Ones You Trust”) and the time passed okay and we made the turn off to Ellenbrae  by about midday.

                                                                 

Having learnt our lesson about nabbing a good camping site asap (especially when trying to find a space for 2 vans) we didn’t stop for scones but paid for our campsites and headed straight down to Ringer’s campground.  We ended up pretty close to where we had camped last week in the spot where we had seen two vans parked up before.  It was a pretty sandy spot and Hendrik did some spectacular wheel spins for a while but we eventually got the two vans in, level and set up.  Miranda had made a loaf of bread for last night which we hadn’t ended up eating so we had that for lunch with various ham, cheese, salad, condiments .  We then decided we probably had just enough room to squeeze a scone in so all piled in the Jeep and back to the Homestead. It really is a cool, green oasis so once again, very pleasant to sit on the verandah and relax with a giant scone and very nice cup of coffee (H&J) or tea (L&M).

We had planned to get a fire happening by 3pm but it was already about 2.30pm and we still had to squeeze in a swim down at the waterhole to wash the worst of the dust off so it was probably more like 4pm before we had rebuilt a fire pit and started a fire.  Never mind, with L now packing a blow torch (to light the fire) and a hand blower (to blow lots of air onto the flames) we soon had the fire roaring and the beginnings of some coals worthy of a camp fire dinner.

Tonight’s menu was beef, red wine and mushroom casserole in the cam oven.  Rather than do potatoes separately and risk them not cooking through or else burning we had purchased a tin of baby potatoes (French, no less!) and just threw them in the pot.  They ended up holding their shape and cooking through easily so they were definitely a winner and we will always travel with a tin or two in future.  The casserole was very tasty and the fact that there were no left overs vouches for that.

                                                            

We invited the nice couple in the van next to ours to join us at our campfire so they came over for a drink and a chat and Miranda miraculously produced a bag or marshmallows from her van so a very pleasant evening was had.  It was chilly overnight and a blanket had to be sought out sometime in the early hours.

Kununurra Revisited

 

Monday 14 June 2021 – Kununurra revisited

When we were in the planning stages of this trip today was going to be a day trip to Keep River NP  just over the border in the NT.  The option was a trip to Lake Argyle.  In the end, the hassle of crossing borders and the fact we had all ‘been there, done that’ with Lake Argyle meant we decided to just stay around Kununurra. 

We successfully filled in a couple of hours doing top ups of grocery supplies and then Hendrik and Larry both decided to buy new shoes so another trip to the camping store.  We then piled in to the trusty Discovery 4 and headed out to Ivanhoe Crossing.  We sent H&M over and back so that Larry could send the drone up and get some good footage of the crossing.  We then drove along the Parrys Creek Road, past the cows, and took the back road into Black Rock Falls.  These falls had been flowing well during the wet and we had seen footage of locals with giant floaty pool toys swimming in the waterhole in January/February.  We had taken bathers and towels in the hope that the waterhole was still swimmable but it starting to dry out now and did not look very inviting.

                                                                                

As we had the whole place to ourselves we sent the drone up the cliff side and so got some good shots of Black Rock and surrounds.  There were lots of butterflies around the edges of the cliff so we spent some time stalking them and trying to entice them to stay still long enough to get a good close up.  So here’s a handy hint, if visiting here, take some honeyed water with you for butterfly shots!

It was getting on for lunch time so back in the Disco and through the agricultural heartland of Kununurra to the Hoochery for lunch.  It was a lot busier than when Larry & I were here a few days ago so we didn’t do any tastings and the cost of the Scotch put H right off a purchase so we found a table outside and ordered lunch of beef or barramundi tacos or pork sliders.  The lunch special included a drink so we all had gin and tonics except Hendrik who was on driving duties.

Back to the van and another load of washing so that we are equipped with lots of clean clothes before we hit the Gibb, then separate cars into town for top ups of fuel and other bits and pieces before we all got separation anxiety and all arrived at the grog shop at the same time.  Top ups for the fridges organised it was back to the vans where we sat and enjoyed the view for one last evening.

H&M took advantage of the lake side BBQ to cook up yummy steaks, corn, potato wedges and salad for dinner and then we all did a semi pack up ready for tomorrow.

And so our very nice mini break in Kununurra comes to an end.

And then there were four.

 

Sunday 13 June 2021 – And then there were four.

Another lazy lie in this morning.  Hendrik said he had been kept awake by fruit bats shaking their wings over head but they didn’t bother us.  H & M went off to church and us heathens stayed around camp and ate scrambled eggs made with the cream that needs eating up and then did some washing and cleaning etc. H & M were soon back and had done a quick shop at Coles so came home bearing fresh, crusty bread.  We decided to have early lunch of ham and cheese sandwiches then finished off the last couple of slices with butter and honey.  Yummo.

We set the back seat up in the Jeep for H & M and then headed off west towards Emma Gorge.  We were fortunate that our El Questro pass on the Jeep was still valid so we didn’t have to pay twice.  It was a much longer, hotter and rockier walk in to the gorge than Jenny had anticipated so it was probably about 3ish by the time we got to the pool and waterfall.  It really is spectacular and well worth the long clamber in.  Still early enough in the season for the water fall to be flowing as well as other minor falls of water through the lush green fernery that manages to claim a foothold on the sheer cliff edge.  The water was near freezing and it took a bit of bravery to get in.  The only reason I actually dived in was because my office soft feet couldn’t take one more step over the small, razor sharp rocks.  Some fast swimming strokes were required to stop the muscles cramping up and it certainly wasn’t the sort of temperature you would want to float around on a pool noodle so we were glad we hadn’t bothered lugging them all the way in. 

So after our hour long hike (we assume as none of us took note but that’s the guestimate) about 15 minutes at the pool was long enough and, as we had a dinner booking for 5pm at the PumpHouse, we figured we better start the long trek home.  As usual it was a shorter trip out – a combination of cooler, wet clothes and the feeling that it’s all down hill (plus the dinner booking looming) probably sped us up a bit.

Well we zoomed home and got back to the vans at about 4.40pm so it was a quick wipe down to get the worst of the mud and dust off and a change of clothes and then we made sure we earned our dinner by walking up to the PumpHouse (yes, yes it’s only about 300m away as the crow flies from our caravans but we had to walk all the way back to the caravan entrance first as there are no pedestrian gates this end of the park, so more like a 900m walk).  So we didn’t feel too guilty hoeing into garlic bread and Belgian fries (not very Belgian according to H) and drinkies whilst we watched the sun go down.  We then thought 2 pizzas between 4 would be sufficient but they were quite small so we were easily talked into 2 dessert pizzas afterwards.  These were particularly scrummy with an apple crumble type topping which the waiter then liberally drowned in brandy before setting light to them. 

It was a lovely setting and we were so glad we had booked there (and hence scored a water side table) but the bugs were industrious and even the restaurant turning off most of the lights didn’t deter them so we headed back to the caravans in the pitch dark and then were stunned to realise we were home by 6.30!

                                            

We sat around the van and had some more drinks but then L & J had to be a bit anti social as the Eagles were losing to Richmond but then, miraculously started to fight back and ended up winning the game and Kate, who had used our tickets to go to the game with Jordan started messaging “OMG”  “OMG MUM” “I SAID KICK IT TO ME JOSH AND HE DID!!” and the Eagles had won by 4 points so that was an excellent end to an excellent day.

Meet and Greet

 

Saturday 12 June 2021 –

Meet and greet

Another leisurely start to the day and Larry had one more go at fixing the headlights and, with the help of technological advances such as a match stick jammed in the connection, finally had some success!

We hopped in the car and headed north across the Ivanhoe Crossing (not very deep but the water flows quite fast across it) and onto the unsealed Parry Creek Road.  In all the years that Larry lived up this way he had never done the crossing or gone on this road as it used to be closed to stop the spread of the Noogoora Burr.  It’s still out here but the road is now traversable and there are only some side roads that are off limits.

                                        

We bumped along the road with Larry occasionally checking the indicators (still working!) and stopped when we got to the Mambi Island boat ramp for a close look at the Ord River.  Larry put the drone up and Jen stood close by and kept an eye on the river in case a croc tried to creep up on us whilst L was distracted. None to be seen and it was all pretty peaceful.  One caravan down here so those people had found a quiet, secluded spot away from it all and after about 10 minutes of us being there, they had it all to themselves again.

                                        

Drove on and were then within the Parry Creek reserve.  We went to the wetlands with the bird watching hide that we had visited with Ben back in 2016.  There was quite a lot more water around this time and the place was teeming with birdlife. We noticed hundreds of tiny fish through the grating under our feet so obviously they were hiding out under the hide in an attempt to not get eaten!  Last time we were here there were lots of crocodiles sunning themselves on the opposite bank.  This time, with the water level being higher, the bank is a bit too steep for them to heft their giant bodies up onto so they had migrated further down the creek and away from the hide and only one lady with a camera and enormous telephoto lens could really spot them.

                                          

                                            

Time to get back in the car and head on to Paul and Deb’s for a catch up.  The plan had been to take them to the Country Club for lunch but Paul explained when we got there that the club isn’t doing lunches at the moment so we ended up just staying at their place and drinking cups of tea and beer, eating yummy steak sandwiches that they whipped up for us and having a good old catch up.  As is usual with them, various people dropped in for Paul to help them out with odd jobs and they joined in for a drink and a chat also so it was a very pleasant way to spend a few hours.  Two of their sons are back in Wyndham and working with Paul at CGL and as there is now more work to be had the town is picking up again and there are now plans to rebuild the country club to make it a real community hub for the town.

We eventually dragged ourselves away and Deb very generously sent us on our way with a dozen freshly laid eggs and a jar of her fabulous home made relish.  Thanks again Deb!

We headed back to the caravan park thinking Hendrik and Miranda might have beaten us back but they were about 20 minutes behind us so we were there ready to be a welcome party when they finally arrived.  They have had a long 5 day drive from Perth to get here so they were more than willing to sit and relax whilst we cooked them dinner and then a bottle of bubbles to celebrate the beginning of our group holiday before early to bed.