The warmest pools this holiday

 

Thursday 8 July 2021 – The warmest pools this holiday

As we only had a short distance to do today, a sleep in was warranted, especially as we had stayed up watching the Tour and surfing the internet etc.  We took full advantage of being in the caravan park and had a morning hot shower and then H&M walked up to our van and we had a big slap up breakfast including cinnamon flavoured pancakes (meh, probably wouldn’t buy again) and the left over chipolata sausages.  We kept an eye on the time though and left the CP at 9.55am so we got our full $55 worth of CP time.

On the road and headed south and, once again, a steady stream of cars and caravans/camper trailers heading in the opposite direction.  It was a fairly nondescript drive – a flat, straight road with low lying scrub either side.  We had to stop a couple of times for road works so that dragged it out to a one and a half hour drive.  Pulled into the Wooramel Station River Retreat and checked in and then found a nice spot with two bays next to each other under some shady trees and overlooking the wide stretch of sand that is the river. The Wooramel River is an upside down river running on the surface only 2-3 times a year for a couple of weeks at a time after good inland rains.   There not having been any recently it is just sand at the moment.

We sat down and had sandwiches for lunch and enjoyed the birdlife in the big trees above us (although not so much when we realised it also meant some ‘fallout’ hitting the vans and cars!)  There were quite a few skirmishes between the pink and grey cockatoos and some parrots that looked like 28’s but with yellow chests and a much brighter green plumage.   Will have to Google them once we have better internet.

We went for a walk over to the ‘historic tip site’ which is basically just a whole lot of old machinery, cars, washing machines, beds etc all dumped artistically into piles with some made into little sculpture pieces.  We then walked from there up to the river on the other side of the homestead and then walked back to camp down the river bed.  Some of it was quite sandy and other bits quite hard as though the water is much closer to the surface.  Even though the maximum is only 22 degrees today we were hot enough after our walk to bother changing into our bathers and heading up to the artesian baths for a soak.  We found one that we only had to share with a couple of other people and had a lovely relax and soak for quite a while.  This has been the only time in the last 7 weeks when we have swum in anything that doesn’t feel like iceblocks have recently been melted into it.  On a scale of one to ten Emma Gorge being a one and Wooramel Artesian Baths being a 9.  (To be a 10 would be as warm as the thermal baths in New Zealand).

It was a lovely soak and the cleanest my nails have been for ages after it but we all smelled strongly of magnesium and other minerals after it so it was back to the van for a hot shower and into some warm clothes.  We set up the table and chairs next to our firepit and saved time by having cheese and crackers for afternoon tea/pre-dinner snacks.  H&M had gone up to the station and bought a bag of firewood so, at the appropriate time Hendrik got a good fire going. Our final cook for the holiday was a marinated flat chicken roast and veggies and the last of the big potatoes par boiled, wrapped in foil and put in the coals. 

The marine cooker proved itself again by heating up a Sara Lee blueberry Danish for dessert which we had with the last of the custard and cream.  Our fridge and freezer supplies are now becoming quite sparse!

We burned all the firewood from the station as well as all the cardboard and last bits of firewood in the bottom of the bags as this is the last fire we will have this holiday also.  So quite an evening of lasts and it is starting to sink in that the holiday is very nearly over. 

Carnarvon

 

Wednesday 7 July 2021 – Carnarvon

It was really dark when Larry got up to go for the planned walk and Jenny, being a bit achey all over, couldn’t face leaping out of bed and hiking up a mountain and rolled over and went to sleep.  About half an hour after the others had gone it got lighter and I got up and had some breakfast and it was so pretty looking out the window at the sun hitting the faces of the rock that I felt that I really should make an effort and walk at least as far as the Temple and meet the others on their return journey.

So about an hour after the others left I strolled at my own pace along the Temple Gorge walk and did indeed meet the others just before the path got to the Temple.  H&M headed back to camp to finish packing up their van but, as I had already pretty much packed up ours, Larry headed back up the path with me a short way to the big flat rock area where you get good views of the big rock formation called the Temple.  Even between the time L had been there earlier and now the colours of the rocks had changed with the angle of the rising sun and it was very picturesque and very quiet as we had the whole gorge to ourselves.

Back to the vans and we were soon hitched up and then driving out of there by about 9am.  Already cars and trailers were heading in, presumably from the other carparks they had been sent to by the caretakers when they had arrived late yesterday afternoon.

We drove south towards Gascoyne Junction and noted with dismay big dark clouds of the south and west and wondered whether our sunny holiday was finally coming to an end.  By the time we reached GJ, however, they seemed to have blown away and it was sunny but with a freezing wind when we got out to refuel and enquire about the availability of bays at the Gascoyne Junction caravan park.  They only had unpowered sites available and it was only 10.30am so the idea of staying wasn’t that appealing.  I thought I would give the Wintersun Caravan Park in Carnarvon a ring and see if they had any availability but was pretty pessimistic given it’s school holidays and knowing how many caravans there are on the road.   Surprisingly thought, instead of the “Sorry, we’re fully booked” I was expecting, the nice lady said yes and, even better, that they had two sites left!  When we gave our names we were both in the database already (we stayed there in 2015, the Overmeire’s a few years before that!) so we were quickly booked in over the phone and it all ended up being easy and like it was meant to be!

So we headed west of out GJ at a leisurely pace knowing that we had somewhere to stay tonight.  It was a very direct road straight west through monotonous countryside.  There was a lot of water lying in shallow lakes and claypans all along the road so they have obviously had a reasonable amount of rain here.  The highlight of the trip was five large wedge tailed eagles on the road feasting on road kill and no amount of tooting the horn could entice them all to leave the road.  Hendrik, travelling behind us, was able to get a good photo of them surrounding our van with one in the foreground looking like a pterodactyl about to devour us!

We got to the Wintersun CP in Carnarvon about 1pm and were given a very nice shady site and not the one jammed in the back next to the shed that we had last time we arrived without a booking and they squeezed us in.  H&M  were about 10 sites further down from us so although we weren’t together we weren’t that far apart and within walking distance for carrying chairs and dinner plates.

After we set up we decided to go into town to get late lunch and to see a bit of Carnarvon.  H&M had had lunch at their van and wanted to go to the Space museum but we did that last time so we went our separate ways for the afternoon. 

We went down to the harbour and had yummy steak sandwiches at the same place we frequented in 2015.  The burgers and shakes were just as nice as remembered.  We then drove out to see how badly the jetty had been damaged in one of the cyclones earlier this year – fairly badly it turns out and drove around the headland enjoying the smell of salty air which we haven’t had much of this holiday.

Stops at the hardware store and camping store where we bought a big thermos as we have become converts to H&M’s routine of a morning tea stop after driving for a couple of hours.  Now we can make our own without relying in Miranda’s thermos to do 4 cups!  A double jaffle iron was also purchased but I doubt it will get used this holiday.  I’m pretty sure last holiday we bought the pizza stone in Carnarvon and didn’t use it that holiday (although it has had plenty of use since).  It seems to be becoming a tradition to buy something for future holidays in Carnarvon!

One last stop at Morel’s fruit shop to stock up on chocolate coated banana and mango icecreams before heading back to the van.  It was then time for some internet catch up until we got the text from Miranda declaring it to be pre-dinner drink time so we headed down to their van with chairs, glasses and plates.

Lamb chops, rice and salad for dinner and a truly decadent chocolate mousse cake for dessert so that we had to waddle back to the van.  It was then time for a lovely hot shower in the ablution block before snuggling up in bed to watch the Tour go up Mont Ventoux a couple of times but fell asleep while Durbo was still in the main pack (found out later he got dropped the second time up the climb and also that poor Ben O’Connor ‘blew up’ also and has dropped a few places in the GC).

 

The most remote remote bit

 

Tuesday 6 July 2021 – The most remote remote bit

We were off to the Kennedy Ranges today to a DPAW site for which you can’t book and it’s first in best dressed.  We were a bit apprehensive about this as it was a long, hard drive to get there only to find the place full and having to drive on to Gascoyne Junction. 

Consequently we were up early and packed up early and decided to just have breakfast in the car.  We were a bit quicker to get ready because it doesn’t take so long to fold up our van as it does H&M so we thought we would make a start as we have to drive a bit slower anyway (as it takes longer for our heavier van to stop in time for washouts etc).  We had only driven up to the main homestead, however, before Larry realised that one of the car tyres was looking very flat so we pulled up on a nice piece of flat land away from the other campers and pumped some air in.  It looks like there might be a slow leak so we will have to keep an eye on it for the rest of the day.

We drove through the creek crossing (which wasn’t very deep although quite muddy coming out the other side) and then turned on the north-south dirt road that will get us through to the Kennedy Ranges.  We drove for a while until the tyres warmed up and then stopped again to check it and actually had to let some air out as it was now unbalanced with the other rear tyre.  After all this fluffing about, H&M had caught us up and we continued south.

It was an interesting road with different road surfaces which were the complete opposite in colour spectrum to Jenny’s classification of bad roads in the Kimberley.  Here a dark red road was like smooth, hard mud and white road was actually sharp rocks and corrugations whereas dark red roads in the Kimberley are dreaded for having the worst corrugations.  The road also wound up and down through plains and valleys and sometimes you could see interesting ranges and rock formations far off in the distance.  It was absolutely deserted though and apart from one or two grader drivers there were no cars to be seen apart from us.  It was indeed the most remote feeling road we have been on all holiday.

Around Lyndon station we were thrown a curve ball as the main road we were on actually required you to do a left hand turn into another road which was still actually the main road so we accidentally continued and headed along a road that would have eventually taken us in a south-westerly direction towards Carnarvon.  Luckily we realised our mistake after only a couple of kilometres and backtracked to the turn-off which had a sign saying it was the road to Mount Augustus (which was another reason we had ignored it before thinking Mt Augustus was a lot further east than we wanted to go).  It did however also have a small wagon sign and this matched the Wagon Way Trail on my map so we knew it would eventually fork again with a road going to Mt Augustus and a road going to the Kennedy Ranges and this was eventually confirmed with a surprisingly touristy sign for quite a desolate road.

We drove and drove and the quality, width, and bends in the road meant it took a lot longer than we had anticipated.  We drove through cattle country with numerous signs warning us of stock on the road (although someone had had fun with the new signs and disfigured the pictures of the cows to look like aliens and changed ‘stock’ to ‘stuck’.  Obviously not much to do out here and certainly not many cars to see you do it!

Eventually about midday we made it to the Kennedy Range NP and drove west towards the Range which is truly spectacular and well worth visiting.  With everything crossed we drove into the Temple Gorge campground and thought we were too late already as there were quite a few caravans/campers etc there already.  The campground hosts came out to meet us and directed us up into a loop we hadn’t seen and there were luckily two or three bays in there and , even luckier, a larger one that would fit our van.   So that was a relief and Larry was able to get the van into the tight spot – you would be hard pressed to get a bigger van in so we are glad of our little XT15 on these occasions.

A quick set up and then we ate the remainder of L’s pizza from Karratha. Although it was only about 22 degrees it was quite hot in the sun and for once, it was actually cooler in the van as there was a nice breeze blowing in from the other side to the door and awning area.

After lunch we all hopped in the Discovery and H drove us northwards to the Sunrise lookout.  We clambered up the slope to the little rock ledge where you are supposed to watch the sunrise but while the sun was overhead it was still spectacular and the cloud formations in the blue sky added another dimension to the scenery.  Larry sent the drone up and it went up a good 150 metres before it cleared to the top of the range.

We drove onto Honeycomb Gorge where it becomes immediately apparently how it gets it name.  Lots of little holes in the rocks where some enterprising people have climbed up and made little rock formations in each cleft.  Or maybe rocks have fallen in there somehow?  It was a comparatively short walk in on a comparatively mild day but we were a bit alarmed to see, in every carpark, big signs saying “PEOPLE DIE IN THIS PARK.  TAKE PLENTY OF WATER WITH YOU”.  We almost felt guilt leaving our water bottles in the car for a twenty minute return hike!

About this time we notice quite a few vans setting up camp even though there were ‘no camping’ signs around and this was also the case at the last gorge we visited, Drapers Gorge, even though this required a fairly bumpy traverse of a creek bed.  I don’t think I would have taken a Jayco Journey through there like those people obviously had.  We walked up to the beginning of the Drapers Gorge walk but it said it took 1-2 hours and we didn’t really feel up to it so late in the day.

We headed back to camp and caught up with a bit of blogging.  It was our turn to cook tonight so it was steak and sausages with potato wedges, corn on the cob and coleslaw.  I think we also managed to knock off another bottle of gin.  The caravan is definitely starting to get lighter this late in the trip!

We were originally going to have two nights here but the plan now is to do the Temple Gorge walk first thing tomorrow morning and then head further south as otherwise we will just be twiddling our thumbs here for most of tomorrow having seen most of the other places this afternoon.  The others want to leave at 7am and I am angling for 8am on the basis that it will still be dark.  I have a feeling I will be out voted...

Emu Creek Station

 

Monday 5 July 2021 – Emu Creek Station

We were a little slow to get going this morning after out late nights.  L&J were ready first as our van takes less time to pack up so we headed back into town to the hardware store to buy some more wood, and having done that, and H&M having been to the pharmacy, we reconvened at the truck stop back on the main highway where we packed the wood away into the bag on the back of the van.

We then drove and drove south-west passing an unending line of cars and caravans/camper trailers or cars with roof top tents/swags etc heading north.  Covid restrictions are over and school holidays have obviously begun!

We stopped at the 24 hour rest stop at Bow River for morning smoko and what an absolutely charming spot – especially if you are one of the lucky handful who can get there early enough to nab a river side spot far enough from the highway/bridge.  We had a cuppa and some ‘pillow biscuits’ because as Jenny says, what’s a car trip without pillow biscuits?  (Spicy Fruit Rolls for the uninitiated!)

Back in the car and another hour or so of driving got us to Nanaturra Roadhouse to refuel.  We timed this really well as we only had to wait for one van in front of us before pulling up to the bowser.  L&J did their usual trick of having one ready to pay as soon as they car was fuelled up so we were able to move the car away from the bowser in record time.    So it was not our fault that after we had moved the car and van and gone back to the roadhouse for hot chips that, by the time we came out again, there was a queue stretching way back out onto the road of people waiting to refuel.  Wow.  Lots of people in the roadhouse wearing masks too.  We will be glad to get off this main coastal road as quickly as we can.

So it was with some relief that after another hour or so we turned left and onto the Emu Creek Station road.  A quick stop at the gate to drop our tyre pressures a bit and then it was back on to the gravel.  This road has obviously seen some rain as well and they are in the process of repairing it as there are nice neat piles of road base dumped on the side of the road next to every washout and hole which gives you advance warning that you are about to hit one!

We made it up to the homestead and checked in and L bought another stubby holder to add to his collection.  We headed down to the creek but even though it was only early afternoon all the good sites which were level, grassy and down next to the water were taken.  Obviously if people reversed in and didn’t park parallel to the water a few vans might have been able to appreciate this area but there is, unfortunately, always a bit of ‘blow you Jack, I’m alright’ about anywhere that doesn’t have designated spots or camp hosts to suggest appropriate ways to set up.

So we were a bit up from the creek on a rocky slope but we did have a vista of the river between the closer vans and also, more importantly, a good campfire ring AND we were closer to the amenities (which were surprisingly nice and clean albeit rustic with a donkey heater for the showers).  We happily spent the rest of the afternoon wandering along the water’s edge or sitting enjoying the view until it was time to dump the load of new wood into the fire pit and to get a good blaze going.  H&M’s dinner turn tonight so it was yummy roast chicken and salad with potatoes (and sweet potato to L’s dismay) done in the coals.  Jenny had one last recipe to try from her campfire cookbook and, not knowing if we may have another fire on this trip, volunteered to do dessert.  Unfortunately the golden syrup rock cakes weren’t that successful.  We decided that the fire/coals had been too hot and they had burned on the outside and dried out a little too much on the inside.  Also, by the time we got around to eating them after dinner they had gone a bit too cold which made them even less appealing.  Still everyone made a valiant attempt at eating them and the fire pit only scored the most inedible, burnt bits.  We washed them down with a few toasted marshmallows on the coals and then let the fire die right down before putting it out and heading to bed.

 

The Big Smoke

 Sunday 4 July 2021 – The Big Smoke

Packed up this morning and on the road sometime between 8 and 8.30am as per usual.  We got to the railway crossing just before the turn off we took yesterday to Python Pool just in time as we could see a train in the distance coming towards us.  So we pulled over to the edge of the road and took photos as it came past us and Larry took the opportunity to quickly check his tyre pressures and put a bit more air in now we will be on bitumen for the next couple of days.  The trains seem to move slowly until they get close and then you can see they actually travel at a reasonable speed – no wonder that driver that somehow lost his train recently couldn’t catch it when it took off without him!

The Federal (and State?) government have spent a fair amount of money on this road and it was a lovely smooth and easy ride into Karratha and interesting seeing different railway lines criss crossing the countryside as every company seems to have its own – no sharing!  We made Karratha in good time and thought we would try our luck checking into the caravan park at 10am.  H&M were luckier as their site had already been vacated but we had to wait around another half hour as there was a couple with a camper trailer, tiny baby and a dog that needed to go wees  on our site.  When they finally drove out we saw that the camper trailer was very shiny and new so they must still be learning how to pack it up and be out of a caravan park by the required 10am checkout. 

The delay meant that Miranda had nearly finished her two loads of washing by the time we were ready to do ours so I just took over those two machines and we continued on with our set up.  We had ensuite sites booked but obviously they hadn’t been cleaned yet but they didn’t have a problem with us setting the vans up and connecting power etc.  It was a sunny day in Karratha but with a strong breeze blowing so we didn’t bother putting the awning out and figured we would put the air conditioner on later if the van had got too hot.  With the washing soon hanging out and looking like it wouldn’t take too long to dry we decided to go off and have lunch somewhere until it did.  We could tell from various TV’s and radios around the park and from texts from Kate that the Eagles were getting thumped by Sydney so Larry decided he needed to drown his sorrows at the Tambrey pub.

So we went there in the Disco and sat with our backs to the big flat screens which were showing the Eagles being behind by about 80 points and had a yummy steak sandwich while the others all had the parmi special.  H&M then took us on a nostalgic trip around their old haunts from when they lived here twenty years ago.  They were a bit sad to see that their nice, neat company house is now in a less than salubrious part of Karratha and obviously not company housing any more.  There are actually some very nice ‘burbs’ in Karratha now and it is interesting to note that the houses are designed with higher than normal carports to fit the requisite boat and/or caravan and that the street verges are also designed wide to allow for parking of the other toy that doesn’t fit in the carport!

Back to the vans to deal with the washing and then we had a little sit down and got up to speed with what’s going on in the world as we haven’t had internet since Marble Bar.  Spoke to the kids and made sure they are all okay and that Ben has survived being in the firing line of obnoxious people at Farmer Jack’s who either refuse to wear a mask or else can’t have as much toilet paper as they think they need during a  four day lock-down.  Restrictions have been lifted so that is good news and hopefully masks aren’t needed by the time I have to go back to work next week (next week???!!!!)

L&J eventually decided to get the grocery shop over and done with and headed off to Woolies.  We met the first of the mask-wearing Perth evacuees in the shopping centre.  They have made good time to get to Karratha already and it was good to see they were obeying the rules and wearing their masks.  We still gave them a wide berth though!

We stocked up with what looks enough food for the next two weeks (which may not be a bad thing as I doubt there will be much food in the fridge when we got home) and then bought some more grog and fuel on the way back to the CP.  After a final game of caravan tetris (although not so hard this time as less food and H&M have finally got their van fridge working again so we no longer have to store their food as well as our own) it was time to take advantage of our nice, clean ensuite.  It was just lovely to have a hot shower longer than 30 seconds and to have one long enough to have lovely clean hair, a clean face, clean feet and shaved bits and pieces.  Bliss!

H&M had had their showers earlier and headed off for a drive up to Dampier etc.  We had left it a bit late so instead just drove to Hearsons Cove and the Burrup Peninsula for the sunset.  After seeing a week’s worth of natural made beauty the man-made industrial constructions were a complete contrast and a bit of a shock to the system.  We went up to the visitor centre car park and took a video to capture the sound of all the roaring machines so different from the sound of wind in trees and birds twittering that has been our more recent backdrop.

Drove slowly back to town and to the Karratha International Hotel which H&M remembered as being a nice place to eat.  It still is and, although fairly quiet on a Sunday evening, does a nice line in Italian themed food.  I had a very nice fennel infused bacon carbonara and Larry had pizza and we all shared a bottle of Prosecco to wash down our meals.  Very pleasant and just so nice to have a night off from any of us having to cook and wash up.

Back to the vans to digest and it was another late night as more internet was used and Tour de France watched.  Ben O’Connor who is a West Australian won the stage

Millstream Chichester NP

 

Saturday 3 July 2021 –

Millstream Chichester NP

It was cold enough this morning for a bowl of porridge which warmed us up nicely.

We wandered up to the Millstream homestead and had a look around.  Interesting that it was still lived in until the 1960’s and then spent about 20 years as a tavern with the master bedroom turned into the bar and the main living area turned into a dining area.  Since the mid 1980’s it became part of the NP and has served as an information centre and now as a museum piece.  I liked the fact that you were actually allowed to sit in the ‘radio rocker’ chairs that are still in the living area – usually items like those have big ‘don’t sit and don’t touch’ signs on them!

Out the back of the homestead was the old kitchen area with a giant wood stove/oven/incinerator.  Have taken photos of it and will ask Mum to explain how such a beast would have been operated.  The heat coming from it would have been phenomenal.

We walked up to the Ranger Station and found Prince Harry who confirmed that the bitumen road heading north up to Karratha is indeed now part of a highway running between Karratha and Tom Price and is no longer a private Rio Tinto road for which you need a permit.  Knowing that we don’t have to take the gravel road that heads north-east and goes to Karratha via Roeburne meant that we decided to go to Python Pool today instead of on the way tomorrow with the vans.

Firstly we tried to do the scenic wetland walk to Jirndawurrunha Pool which H&M remembered from their visit 10 years ago as being very pretty.  Unfortunately Cyclone Damien cut its way through here a few months ago and severely damaged that area and they are still waiting to repair it in consultation with the local indigenous community so it was closed until further notice.

Our turn to drive today so when we were all ready we hopped into the Jeep and drove north.  We turned onto the Roeburne Wittenoom road which was pretty badly corrugated and very windy.  We decided we were quite glad not to bring the vans this way tomorrow.  The road wound up through the hills and provided very long and spectacular vistas in all directions.  Pretty sure I could see Pyramid Station off to the north-east as that rock formation is pretty identifiable.  Stopped a couple of times for photos at various lookouts but headed pretty promptly to Python Pool.  There were already quite a few cars in the carpark and we thought briefly about taking towels etc for a swim but the temperature (it being about 10ish in the morning) didn’t really encourage the idea of getting wet.  We walked down to the pool which was in the shade and although it looked pretty and swimmable we just enjoyed its beauty from the dryness of the shore instead.  We stayed awhile enjoying the outlook and then headed back to the car and drove back to Mt Herbert lookout.  Jenny, Larry and H climbed to the summit for even more panoramic views while Miranda, who was not feeling 100%, kept the Jeep company.  Cyclone Damien has also obviously had an effect on Mt Herbert and must have washed away the steep path as there was a new path with lots of nice flat rock steps set into new grey concrete (obviously new because it hasn’t had a chance to turn red yet!)  Larry sent the drone up for some shots but it was a bit too windy for a long flight – we were worried it would blow off to the south and not be able to fight the wind to get back again before the battery ran out!

                                    

                                    

Drove back to base camp and it was time for some lunch and then a bit of a nap before reconvening at 2pm for some more activity.  We drove down to Deep Reach Pool which is a big wide stretch of the Fortescue River.  This area was very well set up with a big toilet block, loads of picnic tables, gas barbeques and two different pool entry areas where there were big metal staircases down into the water.

We all decided to be brave and have a swim and the water, while cool, was not the coldest we have been in and the swim was actually  very nice although there was a bit of a current you had to keep an eye on so that you didn’t float too far downstream from the steps.  Larry got out and sent the drone up for some footage and had to deal with one grumpy boomer telling him he shouldn’t be flying it.  We explained that we always obey the signs about drone usage and there wasn’t any signs telling us not to (unlike in Karijini) nor anything saying not to in the information brochure and that we always check with anyone around that they are okay for us to do it but they hadn’t been there when we launched  it. 

After she left we packed up and headed back to the car and then drove back to have a look at the Cliff Top Walk which connects three vantage points from which you can view teh Fortescue River and distant Hamersley Ranges.  We watched a hawk or kite circling above the river for ages obviously with an eye on his evening meal but soon it was time to think about organising our own and we headed back to the vans.

Our turn to cook tonight and our version of chicken and rice with sliced up schnitzels on rice topped with tonkatsu sauce and kewpie mayo.  We finished off all our cheese and crackers for dessert but that’s okay as we hit the shops in Karratha tomorrow for a restock.

WA (Wait Awhile)

 

Friday 2 July 2021 – WA (Wait Awhile)

Today was just a bit frustrating. I have always rolled my eyes a bit at eastern staters who sneeringly refer to us Westralians as the Wait Awhile state but today I figured they had a point.

For a start, as we had a bit of a sleep in, Hendrik and Miranda became worried we were ill as they hadn’t received their morning coffees at the usual time.  Hendrik came over to get them just as Larry was leaving the van to deliver them so gave L a bit of shock as he rounded the corner of the van. 

We packed up and left Karijini about 8.30am with a brief stop at the rubbish disposal point and then it was back to Great Northern Highway with CH40 buzzing with truckies, road crews and pilot vehicles.  After about 10 minutes, said pilot vehicle told us to pull over as three overwidth trucks were heading south in the opposite direction.  Unfortunately we encountered them just as they were heading through the pass uphill from Auski to the Albert Tognolini Rest Area.  So it was quite a long wait as they slowly chugged up the hill.  Still they were very wide with trucks carrying big dump trucks with whole tyres hanging off the side of the trucks so it was just as well we were safely out of the way and pulled over on flat ground.

                                        

The bad part of having been pulled over into a group of cars meant that the same group of cars (and vans etc) all arrived at Auski Road House at the same time.  Hence it was yet another exercise in patience as we joined a long queue for the bowsers.  Unfortunately some van towers aren’t great towing their vans in straight lines either so sometimes people couldn’t pull forward into available bowsers.  Auski also operates a system where you have to go in and hand over your driver’s licence before filling up and most people didn’t work this out until it was their turn and then stood there squeezing the trigger for a few minutes before they actually read the sign. 

About this time is when Larry decided he really doesn’t like stupid people.

We finally got served and using our system of one running in and dealing with inside the shop stuff while the other dealt with fuelling up and then moving the van when appropriate thumbs ups are provided we reckon we managed the refuel in approximately a quarter time of anyone else. It reminds us of when we queue overseas for something like the Tower of London where it literally takes us 30 seconds to purchase our tickets after we have stood in a queue of approximately 100 people for something like 3 hours.

Anyway, we were happy to leave Auski and Great Northern Highway behind us and head west along the old Wittenoom road.  This was predominantly gravel with old bitumen bits, particularly around the town formerly known as Wittenoom.  We drove up one of the old streets (with the windows up and the air conditioning on recirc) and saw some of the old houses.  Apparently there is still one old lady living there who refused to leave so it must be a lonely, depressing existence with the town and community you loved slowly eroding around you.

We drove onwards in a north-westerly direction through the Pilbara countryside.  This part of the journey felt the most desolate and isolated road we have been on the whole trip as there were very few other vehicles on the road.  The only thing of interest along the way was ‘Crossing Camp’ which was the in the process of constructing a new railway line through the area.  About lunchtime Hendrik found a likely piece of flat shale next to a stand of trees and a muddy creek for us to pull over and eat our sandwiches.  There were lots of cow and horse prints in the dried mud but no animals to be seen other than some budgies around the creek.  Jenny took some time wandering around collecting all the bits of old wood and roots and filled up the back firewood bag while no one else was looking.

Back on the road and we were all happy to hit the bitumen on the Rio Tinto railway access road for a few kilometres and even happier that we didn’t have to wait for a train at the point where we had to cross the line. Turned left onto the Pannawonica road and another twenty k’s or so to the access road into the Millstream-Chichester National Park. 

We had prebooked and reserved our DPAW sites back in January so were dismayed to see a tent sent up in our bay when we arrived.  So a bit more “wait awhile” as first we tried to find the camp hosts (who had gone off for an afternoon walk) and then a ranger to sort it out.  Just as Larry had disappeared off to the ranger’s office on foot a white Pajero rolled back into camp and reversed into our site studiously ignoring Jenny waiting nearby.  I walked over to the car and the woman eventually deigned to notice me and wind down her window and then very politely (considering how pissed off I was) let them know they were in our site and asked what site they had booked.  She pulled out her booking form which quite clearly showed they were on site 2 , not 14, and she played dumb (or maybe they just were really dumb) and pretended they hadn’t realised they were designated sites (even though they had obviously booked on line just like we had and therefore would have selected a site at that point).  Anyway, they were very quick to jump out and Hendrik took a great photo of the bloke carrying the still erected tent away over his head while Jen drove the van around the loop one more time and found Larry to give him the thumbs up that it was all sorted.

So it was a later finish to the day than it should have been and after set up it was pretty much day over.  The ranger, who looked a lot like Prince Harry, dropped around to check everything was sorted and almost looked a little disappointed that he didn’t get to forcibly remove the tent from the space.  Miranda volunteered to sit in our space so he could forcibly remove her if that helped!!

                                    

                                     

As usual, when someone has had a crappy day and doesn’t feel like cooking it happens to be the other van’s turn to cook and so it was that it was H&M’s turn to cook up a delicious dinner of chicken, rice and veg whilst L&J consoled themselves with a number of gin and tonics.  Our good humour was restored with food, drink and good company and the enjoyment of our two lovely sites (which are probably the pick of the campground – Sites 14 and 15 for future reference).

Snakes Alive!

 

Thursday 1 July 2021 – Snakes Alive!

We were very cosy with the extra layer of sleeping bag sleeping much better and only being disturbed by distant dingo howls once again.  It was cold enough to warrant porridge for breakfast and cool enough for us to decide that the day should involve hiking only in the morning and any potential swimming/wetting ourselves in pools could wait til the day got warmer.

We headed off in the Jeep up to the Circular Pool lookout and confirmed that the walk down into the gorge was indeed closed due to recent rockfalls.  Indeed as you stood at the lookout and look at the surrounding vertical cliff faces it was abundantly clear where bits had given way. We were happy just to do the Gorge Rim walk which takes you along the gorge rim (ha, funny that) between Circular Pool and Fortescue Falls with various lookout points along the way.  Hendrik alarmed Miranda numerous times by hovering way too close to the edge for Miranda’s comfort and at one point (where there is the hidden ‘staircase’ down to Circular Pool) completely startled both Miranda and Jenny but appearing to leap over the edge (but obviously only onto the first step of the staircase which we couldn’t see). Nerves only slightly frayed we reached the Fortescue Falls lookout and headed back the way we came.

All went well for the first half of the walk back until Jenny, who had somehow made it to the front of the line and was negotiating a rocky climb through a gully suddenly decided to look up a little way up the path instead of just at the next step and saw a huge snake about two steps away.  With only a small shriek and a giant leap backwards into Larry’s arms (who failed to catch her and let her fall on the rocks) the danger of squishing the snake was averted.  Our expert snake handler who was with us (Larry) declared it to only be a black headed python and hence not lethal but the bloody thing was over two metres long and hence a wide and cautionary path was beaten around it.  It slowly slithered off the path but not before some photographic evidence was taken.

                                            

Back to the car and we headed back to the caravans for morning tea which then turned into lunch as we pottered around camp.  Now that we are starting to run out of supplies and there is not so much stuff in the freezer, Jenny found the other container of frozen khaki soup (vegetable soup but the green veg in it makes it a particularly unappealing shade of khaki) so that was defrosted for lunch as it is cool enough in the Pilbara where the idea of soup for lunch can be contemplated.

A little snooze after lunch and then we all reconvened at 2pm to tackle the hike into Fortescue Falls and a swim as we figured this was as warm as they day was going to get (about 24 degrees C).  They have built a pretty sturdy set of steps down into the gorge but to reach the water from the bottom of the staircase takes a bit of clambering down the rock face but as this has natural steps it’s not too onerous although the number of wet spots makes you go carefully.  There were a few people in the water so we knew we wouldn’t actually die of hypothermia but it was still pretty bracing and it took a bit of bravery to get in.  We swam across to the falls and back again and felt that was pretty much as much cold water as we needed to immerse ourselves in and got out again. That took a bit of doing as the rocks by the edge were very slippery – getting in had been an easy slide in on them – getting back up smooth slippery rocks was a bit more of a challenge!

                                    

When we eventually regathered and dried off we climbed back up the rocks to the bottom of the staircase and then discovered the off-shoot path to Fern Pool.  This was a relatively easy 300m path further upstream. At one point we all sniffed and thought it smelt a bit like being at the zoo and then looked up to see hundreds of flying foxes up in the trees just hanging out and enjoying the sunshine. Onwards to Fern Pool and there was a little jetty and steps down into a very lovely pool with a gently flowing waterfall.  As we were already wet and everyone assured us this pool was warmer than Fortescue Falls we all had another swim and although still cool, it was definitely warmer than our first swim.  Portion of the pool was even in the sun so we had a much more leisurely swim and enjoyed the beautiful surrounds (for Miranda and Jenny this meant the ferns and the waterfall; for the boys it meant the English girl in the itsy-bitsy bikini).

                                            

Now was the part Jenny had been dreading – the climb back up the metal staircase to the carpark. I was surprised to negotiate the first 100 steps without any trouble at all.  The next 100 were a little more difficult and I was happy to stop at the couple of platforms along the way to take photos and have a little breather.  The last 87 to 88 steps (not sure exactly, although I was counting the lactic acid had started to build up and my heart beat was thumping in my head) were a bit harder.  Happy to reach the top and admire the view one last time before we headed back to the car and back to camp.

A nice hot shower and into some warm clothes and then L&J cooked dinner.  Rather than juggle things on and off the marine cooker we decided we would finally christen the oven in the van and cook the beef brisket in that.  After the cold night last night we had no issues with heating up the van a little bit during the evening!  It took a little while for the hot, new metal smell to be overtaken by the smell of brisket but eventually dinner smelt appetising and we cooked up potato wedges and freshly shucked corn outside, made a salad with the rest of the salad veggies and a very nice dinner was had (the brisket came in a box from Woolies with a barbeque bourbon sauce – highly recommend).

I had left the camembert on top of the kitchen counter so it was nice and runny to have with crackers for dessert.  It didn’t seem quite as cold tonight – maybe because we were doing the cooking – but we were still glad to have the double layer on when we went to bed.

 

A GORGEous day

 

Wednesday 30 June 2021 – A GORGEous day

It became quite obvious we are a further south and inland overnight as the temperature dropped much lower than we are used to.  First extra rugs and then tracksuits had to be added to get through the chilly night – all the accompaniment of dingo howls in the distance.  Consequently not the best nights sleep was had.

We warmed ourselves us up with bacon and egg sandwiches and then had to decide what to do for the day.  We eventually decided to head for the attractions at the western end of the park as that contained more lookouts and things to do that didn’t involve getting wet.  We headed off in the Discovery at about 8.45am – probably our latest start so far! – and got to the Visitor Centre just after opening.   We grabbed some more brochures/maps and then wandered around their very interesting and informative displays highlighting the National Park and the traditional owners and their relationship to the land.  Miranda and I tried to memorise the name of the tree with the long yellow wattle type flowers that are in bloom all over the place.  It is an Acacia Hamersley... (something ending in Latin that we just can’t remember!!)

Back in the Disco and we hit the 4WD only section of track and made our way over the Weano and Hancock Gorge area stopping first at the Joffre Falls lookout. The Falls were flowing but not terribly strongly and we stood at the lookout and watched the more energetic people who had climbed down the ladders from the other side of the gorge and were walking along the bottom of the cliff face and then scaling the near vertical cliff (albeit with rock ledges acting as steps) up along the side of the waterfall.  Feeling no desire to exert ourselves to that extreme we hopped back in the car and drove around to the Weano Picnic Area where we had a cuppa and ate the left over cake from last night.

We then spent a while at the Information Board trying to work out the difference between the Upper Weano gorge walk and the Lower Weano Gorge walk which seemed to be different to the walks outlined in the Karijiini map brochure with different walk trail classes and lengths of trip.  Handrail Pool was closed due to a number of recent “incidents” and the walk down to Kermits Pool at the bottom of Hancock Gorge looked too vertical and as a Class 5 walk requires a high level of fitness and agility. We therefore walked out to have a look at the Oxer and Junction Pool lookouts where we could see into the gorges but not as well as we might have if they hadn’t been fenced off with warning signs that due to a large amount of rainfall recently that the ground underneath was unstable with a resultant risk of giving way.  Having read these signs Larry and Hendrik then went and stood on the unstable cliff edges nearby the lookouts thereby giving Miranda mild heart failure!

After the lookouts we returned to the Weano gorge path with seemed to plummet straight downwards into the gorge. We decided this must be the Lower Weano walk to Handrail pool (which is closed) so headed back to the carpark and found the path to the Upper Weano walk which was a much easier, and flatter path along the rim of the gorge.  We got to the point where a sign said it turned into a Class 4 walk and met people coming up the hill who we had seen go down to the Lower Weano walk whilst we were standing there.  We realised then that the Upper and Lower Weano trails were a a loop and obviously nowhere near as long to traverse as the maps and information signs suggested.  Nevertheless, Jenny and Miranda were not keen on a rocky scrabble downhill plus a steep climb back out the other but Larry and Hendrik were keen to explore so we sent them off down the gorge whilst we back tracked back to the car park at a leisurely pace.

We sat and chatted for only a little while before the intrepid travellers returned only slightly puffing from their ascent up the cliff face and we nabbed a nearby picnic table and consumed our curried egg sandwiches and looked at the boys’ photos of their clamber through the gorge.

Back in the car and we back tracked to Knox lookout which, we had overheard a ranger say, is actually only 3km away from the Oxer Lookout just over the hill that runs between Hancock Gorge and Joffre Gorge but about 22km away by car going around the rim of the gorges.  The ranger was talking about hiking over the hill after a good downpour to get a photo of a waterfall that only occasionally flows and that no-one has apparently ever got a good photo of.   He thought the idea of sending a drone over to take the photo instead of slogging over a steep hill in 40 degree heat to be not very exciting.  We thought it made much more sense!!

We then got back on the bitumen and headed south out of the National Park and over to Mt Bruce.  Here all of our phones started pinging as their is Telstra coverage (whereas the NP has Optus coverage only).  We walked up to the first lookout at Mt Bruce which overlooks the ‘Marandoo’ iron ore mine site and admired the view before Jenny rang ben & Kate to make sure they are surviving lockdown.  Both kids sounded like they are more and ready for us to get home so reassured them it’s only another week and a bit.

Back to camp and it was time for a little sit down and some blogging before it was time to put on some warmer clothes and head over to H&M’s van for dinner.  It got very chilly and there was a little delay waiting for the chicken to cook so we actually had to head back to our van to put on extra jumpers and UGG boots and beanies.  It was a very clear and chilly evening and the sky was a rich tapestry of stars descending all the way down to the horizon.  Amazing what a difference no light pollution makes.

The cold night eventually drove us into the vans and we were happy to snuggle in to bed under an extra layer of sleeping bag on top of the doona.

One loop completed

 

Tuesday 29 June 2021 – One loop completed

All packed up early this morning and ready to tackle some more new roads.  This time it was the road that heads south-west out of Marble Bar. Thanks to Gina’s newish iron ore mine the road is now bitumen for the first 30km or so out of town so we whizzed along that and enjoyed the morning sun reflecting of the red and green hills (red from rock, green from vegetation).

We eventually hit dirt road again but it was very good dirt road which was relatively smooth with minimal corrugations so we made good time until we hit the bitumen again at the next mine and then it was only another 40km or so until it was back on Great Northern Highway.  The last time we were on this stretch of road was on the 24^th May after we had left Newman at lunchtime so I guess you could say we have just completed one very large loop.

We pulled into Auski (can never remember its new PC name) for fuel and a nature break.  The place was absolutely heaving with trucks and caravans and Great Northern Highway was wall to wall road trains so we were quick to move on.  Thankfully the Albert Tognolini rest stop was only another 20km or so up the road so we drove in there and nabbed a picnic table where we ate some of the still warm bread we had bought freshly baked at the Marble Bar general store/bakery this morning complete with various condiments.  There was another MDC XT15 parked up near us but the people didn’t seem interested in coming over and chatting vans – perhaps they were looking down their noses at our very grubby van compared to their lovely clean, probably hardly ever been used van.

We walked out to the lookout which has a good view of the road coming up through a cutting in the hills and is quite scenic and tried to get some artistic shots with pretty wildflowers and spectacular gorges and cuttings in the background.

Drove on and a little further south turned right off the main drag (and finally away from all the trucks and incessant chatter on CH40) and headed into Karijiini NP.  We found our pre booked campsites in Dales Gorge and set up the van.  As we have a 3 night stay we did the Full Monty set up including putting up more privacy screens than usual to assist in sheltering the side and rear of the van from the sun as, although the temperature is only in the mid 20’s, our van does heat up in the sun which can make for uncomfortable sleeping.

H&M were keen to go to the Information Centre to get a ‘plan of attack’ for the next few days so Jenny went with them while Larry did a bit more setting up around the van.  Unfortunately we timed it badly and pretty much got to the Information Centre just as they were closing so only time to grab a couple of brochures before they shut up shop and we had to drive back to base where we found that Larry had “just sat down” with beer in hand.

We sat and had a look at maps etc and then J&L cooked up dinner of honey soy chicken sticks with stir fry vegetables and noodles and then, as that had all got wolfed down, Jenny made the two fruit cake that was meant to be done in a campfire but worked just as well in the marine cooker (honestly, the thing hasn’t let us down yet and may finally convince Jenny that we can travel without the Webber!) and we ate half of that hot as pudding with custard and/or cream.

It was quite chilly by bed time and we probably should have got the sleeping bag out as an extra layer so during the night it was blanket and then tracksuits.

 

New ground but is it marble?

 

Monday 28 June 2021 – New ground but is it marble?

A quick pack up this morning and we were back on the road.  Headed towards Port Hedland for about 30km but then turned south taking the road to Marble Bar.  This was a road we had never been on before so we looked around at the scenery with interest.  In my mind Marble Bar is the epitome of BFN – a town known only for having recorded the highest ever temperature in Australia stuck in the middle of a dry hot plain.  So it was a pleasant surprise to drive along with green hills around us, albeit the predominant vegetation being Spinifex.

We decided to stop at Doolena Gorge for morning tea and nearly missed the turn off as it was a very little sign.  A bumpy road in with lots of overhanging trees wasn’t that suitable for the XT15 so eventually we parked up in a little turn around area and walked in the rest of the way which was only a couple of hundred metres.  H&M drove in all the way so had the thermos unpacked and hot water sorted for our cuppas by the time we got there.  We wandered down across the huge river bed for views of the gorge with drinks in hand and admired the rocky red faces of the gorge.

Back to the cars and onwards to Marble Bar.  Just outside town we saw the racecourse and L was a little disappointed that we were six days early for the next race meeting.  We learned later, however, that we would probably not have got in anyway as attendance is capped at 3000 people in order for the crowd to be managed and tickets had already been sold.

Jenny was very impressed by the entry statements leading into Marble Bar – four large, iron sculptures and a large “Welcome to Marble Bar” sign – far more impressive than the piddly entry statements into both the Town of Cambridge or Cottesloe – both who could afford to do much better than they do.

Marble Bar town site was a very pleasant surprise – a tidy little town with neat gardens and houses and a lovely old government building which was formerly the post office and now houses the information centre and police station.

We pulled into the nice, shady caravan park and only had a brief moment of panic when the guy couldn’t find our reservation only to find the lady had reserved it under “Jenny” instead of “Bender”!!  We set up and Jenny quickly did a load of washing while that happened so that we could head off and support the local economy by buying lunch rather than making it.

For some unknown reason the pub only opens between 12pm and 1pm for lunch (even though the caravan park was packed with tourists and so anyone with any business sense would realise they could open between 12 and 2pm and probably make twice as much money if not more.  As it was, because it was 1.05pm by the time we were ready to eat we had to make do with fast food from the Traveller’s Rest roadhouse coming into town.  This wasn’t a huge tragedy though as they made very hot chips and the nice lady let us sit inside at one of the three motel breakfast tables to eat our pies, sandwiches and chips.

Prior to lunch we had driven past the Iron Clad hotel (just to make sure it really did shut at 1pm) and had driven on to the Information Centre and had a look at the little museum.  As an old, turn of the century type building it had lovely thick walls and I imagine it would have been quite a nice place to work in the middle of summer and pre air-conditioners.  The Information centre has a chart showing the worst heat wave in Marble Bar in living memory which was in 1926/7 and basically involved every day between October and March being above 40 degrees Celsius.  Apparently this year was hotter but not for as long! 

                                    

                                    

After lunch we followed the instructions of the Information Centre lady and headed slightly out of town to the bar of rock that runs across the Coongan river which was, when first discovered by white man, thought to be marble but later found to be Jasper.  This whole area is an ‘A’ class reserve and there are lots of stern signs telling you not to remove or chip off any bits of rock.  We climbed all over the bar though and Miranda had brought along a water bottle which we filled from the creek and then splashed over the rocks to bring out all the pretty stripes and colours.

                                

                                

Back in the car and we headed on to the “Jasper collection area” which is a far less impressive bit of rubbly rock another 5km further along the road.  We picked up a couple of likely looking little rocks but then Jenny had the idea of picking one up and flinging it against another whereby a piece shattered off and a pretty striped rock inside could be seen – not Jasper and probably quartz but pretty all the same.

We had seen signs on the road indicating the Comet Gold Mine museum was only a few more kilometres down the sealed road (thanks Gina!) so we headed down to take a look.  Sure enough we came across the derelict gold mine on one side of the road at the base of a big hill and a predominantly derelict settlement on the other, amongst which stood the museum building and a old fashioned white building which we found out later is the caretaker’s abode.

We paid our $3 each for museum entry and then were virtually imprisoned by Gerard (the caretaker) for the next hour or so as he first explained in detail all the things of interest inside the building and then made us sit on the verandah overlooking the gold mine while we told us what every building was and its purpose, the history of the gold mine and pretty much where every seam was found and when.  It was actually all pretty interesting but it did drag probably a bit too long and it got a little hard to stifle yawns towards the end.  The brief synopsis is that one bloke found some alluvial gold in the creek at the base of the hill, dug a bit of a hole and managed to hit a seam.  He went on to sell the claim to Claude de Bernales (who built my place of work with the profits) who brought in a village worth of miners, built them houses, a pool and a tennis court and then managed, with a fair amount or arse to hit seam after seam running in all different directions within the hill side.  By the time the mine closed they had managed to extricate about half a billion dollars worth of gold out of it.  They reckon there’s still gold in there to be had but the hill is so riddled with holes and tunnels that no structural engineer can figure out how to get to it without getting a few thousand tonnes worth of earth on his or her head.

                                    

We finally escaped the museum some time after 4pm and headed back to the vans where J brought the washing in.  I had had a nice chat to a lady whilst hanging it out who had just come back from a few weeks prospecting out past Nullagine.   They do it as a hobby and had found a few “ouncers” worth about $80 to $100 each so had just about covered the costs of their prospecting licences, equipment and protective clothing required while trudging through harsh Spinifex country.

A bit of down time and internet and then Miranda started plying us with food – pate and crackers, followed by steak, corn, roast potatoes, carrots and broccoli in a white sauce followed by a delicious golden syrup pudding.  We did our best but had to give up with a couple of spoonfuls to go.  Nice hot showers before bed.   We have enjoyed our time in Marble Bar and are very glad we came here.