LarryJen: 2023

Friday, 16 June 2023

Tunnel Creek

Wednesday 14 June – Mount Hart to Birdwood Downs

A bit of a drive today as we had to adjust the itinerary when Windjanna Gorge campground closed for the season due to flood damage. Hence we were packed up and on the road just after 7.30am (Jenny is always very relieved to get the van hitched up without it rolling down the hill and into the river) and we repeated the wet and muddy drive back to the Gibb River Road. Once we were up and over Inglis Gap the road remarkably improved and was so well graded it almost felt like bitumen in parts. We can see now why we saw a guy letting his tyres down near Imintji – that’s where the rough and corrugated roads of the true Gibb really begin.

Quite a bit of traffic on this end of the Gibb and even more as we turned onto the road down to Tunnel Creek. Lots of clean cars and caravans who have all obviously come from the west and have yet to see any real dust and this road being recently graded, yet to see any really rough roads. Due to Windjana being closed there were heaps more caravans in the Tunnel Creek car park and we had to part on the side of the car park as there were no free bays. 3 tour buses there also so we expected the cave to be heaving with people. Luckily a lot of people were coming out or else sitting in the picnic ground having lunch as there didn’t seem to be that many people in the cave and there were sections where it was dark and quiet and we couldn’t see any other headlights.

We had to laugh at Shaun who had been quite nervous about the deep creek crossing where you have to swim for about 20m. He strode towards his doom and swam doggedly across in grim silence (expecting any moment for a crocodile to drag him under) but made it safely to the other side where he could then relax and enjoy his underground journey. Lots of creek crossing which was lovely as it was nice to be cool on another hot day. We shone the torches around and could seek lots of little bats on the roof of the cave and lots of little fish and even small marron or terrapins in the water but no crocodiles of any description. They would be crazy to be near anywhere near that many people I would think.

By the time we got back to the vans it was about 1pm but the boys wanted to crack on and get to tonight’s campsite so it was a party size packet of Cheetos for lunch. Oh well, you can’t eat fabulously every day and especially after two weeks on the Gibb when just about all the fresh food has run out or gone limp. Once we got back to the Gibb River Road it was time to pump up the tyres and say goodbye to the dirt – we are back on the bitumen!

Another hour’s drive down the hard stuff and we were pulling into Birdwood Downs Station. We weren’t sure where we would end up but by now it was 3.30pm and we were close enough to Derby to get phone reception and an email reply from Birdwood to say they had room for us so we pulled in and parked up in their ‘big rig’ area so we didn’t have to unhitch. We stocked up on sausages and steak from their fridge (another station that has upped its game this year) and retired to the vans, not bothering to go over to the communal fire pit or even use their amenities having become used to just using our own over the last couple of weeks.

Wednesday 14 June – Mount Hart to Birdwood Downs

A Little Dip

Tuesday 13 June – Mount Hart

Shaun’s birthday today so it was present time over a cooked breakfast. As we are just moseying around Mount Hart today it was a lazy morning as Shaun had birthday calls etc to take. We then piled into the Cruiser and drove down to Annie’s Creek to see how high the water level is. We were able to cross here in 2019 but not in 2021 after a better wet season so of course the road over is closed again this year. We walked along the creek instead and L nearly had heart failure when two pigeons flew out from behind a rock right in front of him. We were the only people there and probably the first for the day so we were the first to disturb their peace and quiet.

L and S skipped across the creek to visit the large boab tree on the other side but J, having seen in before, was content to stay on the other side and explore the various cascades and rock pools along the creek. Not much to see in terms of wildlife (apart from the pigeons) however.

Back in the car and headed off just as a tour bus pulled in so that was good timing. We drove on to Matthews Gorge (which we are pretty sure has been called Dolomite Gorge on previous visits). It was getting on for late morning and pretty hot again so we very quickly decided that a casual stroll to the first pools along the creek instead of making it to the big pool at the back of the gorge would be the go. One couple coming out as we got there so we had the place to ourselves for quite a while. The little waterfalls were flowing strongly and the pool was deep enough for a good soak so we stayed blobbing there for ages until at last another couple came along. Having been there long enough to start to feel hungry we left them to it and headed back to the car just as, once again, the tour bus arrived.

Back to camp and toasted up the ham and cheese sandwiches I had prepared earlier and then we decided that a lazy birthday afternoon was in order which because of Shaun’s advancing years also required us all to have an “LLD” (little lie down). Feeling much better (but a little hot and sweaty from being in warm vans on a hot day) it was time to hit the showers and dress up a little (ie J actually wore a dress for the first time all holiday!) and then go up to the station for happy hour drinks and dinner to celebrate Shaun’s birthday. A very nice meal was had (fish and chips for L&J and a yummy tandoori pizza for Shaun) just goes to show that you should never believe everything you read on Facebook and really should go places and make up your own mind. Mount Hart has been just as good as we remember, if not better, and is definitely worth a visit.

As they hadn’t stuffed up our dinner and hence we didn’t get free drinks this year, L was able to safely navigate the car back through the campground at the end of the night and after a couple more nightcaps and rocky road for dessert, it was time for bed.

Mt Hart

Monday 12 June – Silent Grove to Mount Hart

We had read some reviews recently that Mount Hart was ‘boring’ and ‘overrated’ so we set off today with some small fear that we had filled Shaun with unrealistic expectations about how good it is. We didn’t have a huge drive today so there was time for bacon and eggs for breakfast but, as we all wake up fairly early, we were probably still on the road by 8am.

A short back track to Imintji for fuel as L decided it was probably best not to stress about running about before we get to the other end as we are not sure how much fuel lugging the van in and out of numerous creek crossings to and from Mount Hart might be chewed up.

The drive in to Mount Hart puts a lot of people off as it is about 50km but we find it interesting as there are lots of fun creek crossings (albeit some quite muddy) and the road wends through picturesque hills that have interesting geological features with very black rock flowing down from the top of the hills that looks very igneous.

We made it to the station after about an hour of muddying up the car and van (and losing one leg handle in the bottom of a creek somewhere) and noticed immediately upon entering reception that the place has picked up its game since we were here last – lots of new helicopters, cars and plenty of staff running around in bright, shiny new uniforms with big smiles and European accents. The backpackers are back!

We were checked in quickly and efficiently and made our way down to the campground where there were very few campers and hence we were able to set up in a “L” shape right on the riverbank. We set up so that we are in the shade and Shaun in the sun as he needs his solar panels on his roof to be charging whereas our lithium batteries store charge for much longer. J made Ryvitas with vegemite, cheese and tomato for all while the boys set up solar panels and made a fire pit and then we sat in the shade, ate lunch and admired the river views for a while.

Before we could start to get lazy and think about hammocks and naps, we roused ourselves and put on bathers etc and headed off to Barker’s Pool which is a deep section of river to the south of the station. Showing that this place is indeed improved since our previous visits, they have installed a bit metal staircase down into the river (whereas before you had to scramble down the muddy river bank) and further down river we discovered a pedal boat for paddling up and down a 200m stretch of river. Therefore much fun was had with swims and paddles and much guffawing at Shaun and Larry’s attempt to paddle their boat in a straight line. Once they had mastered it, they were able to come and pick me up from the riverbank and I was then chauffeured up and down the river and decided there weren’t many better ways to spend a Monday afternoon.

We eventually hauled ourselves back onto dry land and headed back to the vans. It is so warm that it was easier to just stay in wet bathers for the late afternoon/evening especially as tonight’s plan was to have a big campfire (probably our last of the holiday) and therefore there was no point in having showers and then getting all smoky.

Honey mustard chicken in the campfire was another hit and, once again, no leftovers. To make the most of the campfire coals we then had a mixed berry damper. Shaun, having had a fridge drama earlier in the day when his van fridge kept tripping, contributed half melted Magnum icecreams to dribble over the hot damper. Once again a winning combination was discovered and soon gobbled up.

Off for showers in the amenity block (also clean and tidy – what are these people on Facebook complaining about??) before the generator went off at 8pm and then time for bed.

Bell Gorge

Sunday 11 June – Manning Gorge to Bell Gorge

A poor night’s sleep last night with a mixture of indigestion, too hot, too cold and snoring keeping us awake. We were still awake at about 6.30am though and, after coffees, set to packing up the van for another move west along the Gibb. Bad timing meant we slowly followed a large Jayco out of the campground and all the way to the water point. That, combined with the incredibly low water pressure and time taken to fill the tanks, meant there was plenty of time for Jen to walk the rubbish over to the rubbish cart, go to the toilet and then go into the roadhouse to buy iced coffees/chocolates and chicken nuggets for breakfast (strange choice I know – I had though they were mini hashbrowns when I ordered them).

Shaun took the lead and we followed in his dust past the turnoffs we might have taken if not for the big wet such as to Mornington. We made it to the Silent Grove campground by 11ish and found a reasonably shaded spot in the generator area. Surprisingly there seemed to be more vans in this part than in the non generator part which had been the opposite last time we were here and hence why we had chosen the generator area this time. Not to worry, we found a spot with picnic table and campfire ring between us and reasonably level and shady so all good.

We ate up the pizza for an early lunch and admired a big Titanium van near us. As this is one of the brands L&J are interested in for our retirement van Jen wandered over for a closer look as there was no car there and it seemed all was quiet for a family van. J jumped when the Mum inside said hello but we were soon chatting away and Jen was invited in for a closer inspection of the van having explained why she was invading their space. Very nice and they are very happy with it and the after sales service they have received so it will stay on our list of desirable vans.

The poor night’s sleep and heat had given J a bit of a headache which had developed almost to a migraine by lunchtime and the prospect of the hike into Bell Gorge just didn’t appeal. Once again, although it is really a fabulous waterfall this year, having been there twice before and knowing the rocky climb involved in getting down to the water, it seemed a good idea not to exacerbate a headache and annoy the boys with my slow going on the hiking section.

So a sleep and a catch up on the blog for J instead.

When the boys got back it was cheese and crackers on the picnic bench while the lasagne heated up on the marine cooker.

It was very yummy and no leftovers followed up with port and Turkish delight chocolate which we all agreed was an incredibly delicious combination.

Manning Gorge

Saturday 10 June 2023 – Manning Gorge

Jenny had already decided even in the early planning stages of this holiday that she would sit out the hike into Manning Gorge. It’s a long and arduous hike there and back although you are rewarded with the fabulous waterfall and swimming hole at the end. Having done it twice before, though, I didn’t feel the need and the chance of a lazy morning reading my book was more enticing.

I therefore waved the boys off about about 7.45am and stayed in bed a little longer before getting up and making porridge for breakfast – just for something different. I then decided to bake the bread dough I had prepared and frozen at home but I couldn’t get the inside oven to work and the outside marine cooker did a poor job at burning the outside and not fully cooking the inside so not a success.

Larry had asked me to keep an eye on the solar panels and keep moving them to stay in the sun and I noticed that once most people had left the area for their walks etc the crows moved in and started checking out campsites for exposed food/bins etc. It therefore quickly became apparent that it would be necessary for me to sit outside the van in the shade with my book and intermittently get up to move panels or chase away crows from ours and other campsites. And so the morning passed.

The boys were back before 11am looking a little hot and bothered and Shaun had managed to stub his toe again which was turning interesting shades of purple. After a little rest it was decided to carry out chairs, drinks and snacks down to the river next to our campsite and sit in the middle of the stream to cool our feet (and Shaun’s toe). This was such a good idea we stayed there for ages and the water was only ankle deep and there was enough shade to make it a cool and relaxing way to spend time.

We eventually climbed back up the hot and sandy hill to the vans for another little sit down in the shade and a late lunch of tinned spaghetti for me while Larry gamely forced down a couple of slices of undercooked burned break liberally slathered in butter and jam.

About 3ish we piled back in the Landcruiser and headed down to the ‘beach’ next to the day use area – the point from where the little boats are launched to ferry your stuff across at the beginning of the walk to the falls. As it seemed very crowded at that point we walked 100m upstream to a quieter spot. Only after entering the water we realised it was right next to a tree with a swinging rope and, not long after, so did the big group of noisy families that had spoilt the tranquillity at Galvan’s Gorge. Nothing for it but to move back up the original spot which now seemed a lot quieter – Jenny swimming there while the boys climbed out and carried the stuff back up there.

We then sat and blobbed in the water until we got cold and the loud, opinionated people around us started to get on our nerves. Really, how can you state categorically what’s the best parts of the GRR when you’ve only made it halfway and have yet to see it all?? They were all denouncing Mt Hart as ‘boring’ and ‘overrated’ which we don’t agree with at all but are happy for them to surmise as hopefully it means they will deter others and it will be less busy when we get there. L and I have had it confirmed that we really don’t like ‘people’.

Back to the vans to get another cracking fire started and, miracle of miracles, Shaun’s “FREE WIFI” sign on his door finally did the trick and a gorgeous, young, single female walked over from her camper (she’s from Byron, say no more) and introduced herself and asked for Wifi access. We left her and Shaun chatting by the campfire while we prepared pizza dough and toppings and then once Nicola wandered off to cook up her own dinner, very yummy pizzas were consumed with enough left overs to do for lunch tomorrow.

It was then an icecream on a stick each and, as Shaun’s Starlink was still on for Nicola, we watched and listened to various Simpsons songs including the one that we keep thinking of at the moment given all the big 4WD’s on the track – Canyonero! We also had a quick look at the AFL website to see how the Eagles had fared against Adelaide and wished we hadn’t – a 122 point loss – this team seems to reach new lows every game.

Galvins Gorge

Friday 9 June – Drysdale to Manning Gorge

We all wanted an early start today as the Adamsons want to make it back to Home Valley and we want to get to Manning Gorge with enough time to get a decent camping spot. Lots of hugs and farewells and then the convoy split back into two touring parties.

This part of the FSR was just as FS as before and required a few crawling sections at 5km/hour when the corrugations got too big. Another stop at the Kalumburu Road intersection rest stop for morning tea and to inspect the vans which fortunately seem to be intact. Another XT15HR being towed by a Landcruiser was there so we each admired the other’s set up. They had solar panels etc out and it almost looked they had camped up there for a while. Larry (only slightly sneeringly) suggested they probably didn’t have the superior battery set up that we have – our lithium batteries mean we very rarely drop below 80% capacity even with both fridges running at low temperatures.

We bumped off down the road with only one brief stop outside Gibb River Station (closed their year for some reason but it still has good phone coverage down at the gates) and then on to Barnett River roadhouse for fuel and hot chips before wending our way down to Manning Gorge campground. We headed through the campsite hoping for the same area we had camped up with the Overmeires a couple of years ago but one little car with roof top tent put paid to that idea. In the end, it wasn’t a bad thing as it forced us to go that little bit further and find a nice U-shaped spot with big, rock lined campfire ring looking out towards the river. A bloke across the way kind of spoilt the serenity by running his generator the minute we started setting up but he came across and apologised and explained he has smashed an Anderson plug and had not been able to charge up his van as expected on the journey there. Having all been there, all was forgiven.

Having already had hot chips we weren’t very hungry so just had a small lunch of a small quiche and party sausage roll each – the last of Kate’s 21^st pastries are now consumed. Before we could let the thought of afternoon siestas enter our heads we changed into bathers and climbed into the Cruiser to head to Galvan’s Gorge for a swim.

On our many journeys across the Gibb we have always been towing a van past this gorge and the carpark has always been too full of cars and vans to fit ours and Larry has not wanted to stop there. This trip I had made L promise to fit in a trip to Galvan’s Gorge as being one of few places along the GRR we haven’t been to. It is marketed as a ‘short, easy walk’ into the swimming hole but it was longer, hotter and more rock hopping than we expected and Jenny was glad she had left her hiking boots on ‘just in case’. The boys doing it in thongs found it hard going, particularly as we missed the path and clambered up the rocky river bed for the last 50 metres or so.

Unfortunately there were lots of people there and lots of people splashing, shrieking and swinging off the tree rope so it was far from being a place of relaxation and serenity. It was, however, very picturesque and the water was cool and refreshing enough to make it worth going. The walk back to the car was much more enjoyable as we followed the easier path back and did it in cool, wet bathers which always makes it a bit more enjoyable.

Back to the vans and it was once again a case of leaving wet bathers on until evening. We still have lots of wood after S&D’s wood gathering exercise so we built up a really good campfire. As we didn’t need it for cooking purposes we could have it as a proper fire and instead cooked up curried sausages on Shaun’s Weber. The coals were so good though that we ended up moving some across and had jacket potatoes and L made sure they were covered enough to get the really yummy cooked skin on the outside as well. The coals were still so good that a whole wheel of camembert was also thrown in there and Shaun’s idea of placing a small pile of coals on the shovel and putting the chese on there worked a treat.

A truly yummy meal once again and we expressed our satisfaction in burps and farts around the campfire which was only acceptable because it meant there wouldn’t be burps and farts in the caravan later on!

Still Bumpy

Thursday 8 June 2023 – Munnurru to Drysdale

A bit longer to pack up this morning and 3 nights worth of stuff to put away again. Funny how quickly you get out of the routine of the morning pack up after a couple of days.

We asked Shaun to go first across the water crossing so he could film us coming across and then we parted ways at the intersection so that he could go deal with his toilet cassette. We bumped our way down the road which was slightly worse than when we came up it three days ago. A short stop at the driveway into Doongan station to let the suspension etc cool down and just as well we did as one of our Anderson plugs connecting power between the car and van had come out and was trailing in the dirt. We think only since the last fairly deep water crossing so not too damaged at least. Taped it up to be repaired later today.

We made it back to Drysdale without further incident and after refuelling the car and rewatering the van found a nice shady spot towards the back of the campground with a large enough area to fit the 3 vans.

Headed straight over to the washing machines which were unused at this time of the day and got a load on whilst we set up and the Anderson plug was fixed. We hung that load out and, as there were still no other demand for the machines, decided to put on a second load of towels and all our bedding which is pretty smoky after the last few nights of big, roaring fires.

We walked over to the pub to book for dinner and a brief moment of panic when the bartender said he would have to check with the chef whether they could manage a table for 7 as they have two tour buses coming in tonight. Chef was in an accommodating mood fortunately so we celebrated that good news with another of their yummy beef burgers for lunch – this time with bread rather than a bun as the bun order has yet to arrive for the day. Still good though and we at our half so quickly (L and J sharing one) that it didn’t have time to disintegrate!

While the second load was on and as the ablution block was also quiet, Jen took the opportunity for a shower and to wash her hair which always feels like such a luxury after a few days of ‘top and tail’ showers in the van.

Chores done and feeling clean and neat we wandered up to the pub again at about 5pm and sat drinking beers/cider and playing Uno with the kids. Right on 6pm our pre-ordered steaks with garlic butter arrived, served with chips and salad (the same little bucket of chips with every meal makes me wonder how many frozen bags of chips they get through every day?!) Very yummy but very filling and L&J were glad they had agreed to share dessert of apple and blueberry crumble as our empty corners were pretty small!

As it is our last night together Amanda arranged for a chocolate brownie with a birthday candle for Shaun as it is his birthday in a few days and we all sang Happy Birthday fairly raucously. The Adamson’s gift to Shaun was a pair of crocodile g-string budgie smugglers which Shaun refused to put on despite Amanda’s encouragement. Amanda also gave us a card thanking us for our help and company over the past 2 weeks and with addresses for us to stay at when we are in their part of the world on our big lap. We will definitely take them up on the offer and look forward to keeping in touch with them and seeing how they enjoy the rest of their holiday and then settle back into ‘normal’ life. We feel they have become our friends as well as Shaun’s after all we have shared.

Back to the vans for a night cap but however much we wanted to stay up and prolong our time together our eyelids defeated us and it was off to bed we went. The campground at Drysdale is the quietest we have ever seen it so nothing to disturb our slumber.

Hot Showers Again

Wednesday 7 June 2023 – A chill out day

There’s nothing better when on a caravan holiday to wake up and know that you don’t have to pack up the van or rush off to a scheduled sight seeing destination. Instead it was coffee in bed followed by a cooked breakfast of bacon and eggs. We even had time to get creative and make yummy potato rostis. One potato and onion (etc) made enough for 4 large ones so Shaun and Darryl scored one each as well.

Not as foggy this morning and not much shade around the campsite so Jenny found some shade around the far side of the van for reading and blogging whilst L crossed his fingers and set to with soldering iron to see if he could fix the hot water system. As he is such a clever boy he managed it so we will have hot water again tonight (not that it seemed that important in the heat of the day!) Soldered and taped into place, we will hope that the capacitors last the journey back down the FSR and beyond.

Various jobs done the morning passed until we decided it was time to reward ourselves with a swim. By this time, Darryl and Shaun had returned from their firewood gathering exercise and Amanda and the kids had exhausted their diligence at art and wand making so we piled into cars and headed to the day use area at King Edward River. It was then a case of pool noodle heaven in the middle of the cold, refreshing river and it was so lovely we pretty much whiled away the afternoon there. Once we got too cold and pruney Jen and Amanda went for a walk down to see the waterfall and it is amazing to see the beautifully smooth rocks washed to a gorgeous red colour. We marvelled that there must be some seriously fast flowing water across the valley to make them so. The falls were very picturesque and worth the effort of the walk – fast flowing enough that you can clearly hear it from our campsite at night.

We walked back just as the boys had emerged from the water but it took a bit more coercing to extract the kids from the water with only the threat of making them walk all the way back to the campsite working. It was warm enough to want to stay in wet bathers and we set to laying a big fire so that on the stroke of 4pm we could set it alight and get it roaring for a big fire to make enough coals for our roast lamb meal.

A group effort had the Benders on roast lamb and cauliflower cheese duty, Shaun on green veg and gravy duty and the Adamsons on roast potato, carrot and chocolate pudding detail. It all came together for a truly delicious dinner. For our first attempt at a roast in the camp oven it wasn’t bad although possibly a little overdone for lamb. Lessons learnt for next time.

We had met up a Queensland couple we had previously chatted to at Pigeon Hole lookout down at the waterhole and they came over and shared our campfire so a lovely party atmosphere. They have left their van at Drysdale and are swagging it here, at Mitchell Falls Campground and at Honeymoon Bay so unlikely we will see them again after this.

Big Day

Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Mitchell Falls

A bird flew onto our awning at 6am this morning and shouted “Wake Up!” at us. Nature’s alarm clock! We set off at 7.30am as we have a helicopter to catch at 10am. We thought we would be in plenty of time as we had allowed 2 hours and got to our usual half way rest stop in about 45 minutes flying over the corrugations. We saw a dingo which ran along the road in front of us for a while before then running along next to the car for a bit. Reminded me of when we used to run Tinker alongside the car back in the day. The second half was more slow going, however, as there was a lot of exposed rock and the last 16km was particularly slow going and we got caught behind a couple of trundling cars.

We got there about 9.40am so time for a toilet stop before weighing in and having the safety briefing for the helicopter. We climbed into the helicopter with two older ladies, one of which was on crutches so an extra Helispirit bloke had to come with us to help her on and off and so we were a full chopper. Jen got to rub knees with the Helispirit guy sitting across from her which was no terrible thing given they are all young, good looking 20 something guys! The only downfall being that I had to look nonchalant about sitting on the edge seat of a helicopter with no door as it tipped me towards certain death after plunging into the Mitchell River.

No such fate though and we landed safely and then had all the time in the world to look at the falls from all angles. Other times we have been here we have had time restraints because of a return helicopter booking and have only had time for quick photos at the top. This time we wended our way around to the furthest vantage point and got sit in the shade of a tree and east morning tea enjoying the view.

We then crossed the river and went looking for the spot we had had a swim in 2019. Due to the river being a lot higher we couldn’t make our way into the water where we wanted and the other spot was being dominated by two yobbo families and wasn’t conducive to a relaxing swim. Feeling a bit miffed and a bit hot we left the river and headed down the path hoping for somewhere a bit further downriver where we could swim. We met Shaun and the Adamsons coming up looking hot and bothered and were able to reassure them they were getting close to the falls and where best to access the river for a swim (being the other side from where we had tried). We then continued on to Big Mertens falls where the river was high enough for us to slide across the rocks and into the water for a much needed soak to lower our body temperatures and to stop Jenny’s grumbles.

Feeling much happier we continued on ostensibly down but with way to many climbs up to feel like that was the case. We eventually got to Little Mertens falls and clambered down the rocky Cliffside to the water’s edge. The whole place to ourselves was lovely and the water so so nice and refreshing with the added bonus of the falls cascading into the pool for a truly fabulous swim. Hunger eventually drove Jen out of the water and eating my lunch in my wet bathers realised that it was getting on for 2 o’clock. Knowing we still had a 2 hour drive back to camp Larry was called back to the towels also so that we could complete the hike back to the car.

As we walked along we walked along we wondered aloud what the orange fruit on the ground were. A voice behind us said “they’re quinny” (or something like that) and gave us a quick bush tucker lesson. You can’t eat them but apparently the indigenous chew on them to cure toothache as they have a bit of a numbing quality to them. In addition the women use them as a birth control method as they can pretty much flush anything out of your system. So don’t eat the little orange fruit folks!

We made it back to the car about 2.30pm and only time for a cold drink from the fridge before hitting the track again. On the way out we saw a big lizard on the road. Kind of looked like a giant frill necked lizard but not sure what it actually was. The Adamsons caught us up just before the rest stop but didn’t stop there as beer was calling Shaun from afar and Darryl’s car doesn’t have a fridge on board. As we do, we stopped for another drink and some chocolate biscuits before hitting the road for the last stretch.

Back to camp and a slow and laborious climb out of the car as by now our legs and knees have seized up after our walking and rock hopping today. The others, albeit much younger than us, had walked the track in both directions and were also feeling exhausted.

Luckily we had a fairly easy meal of burgers which Shaun cooked up with bacon and onion whilst J quickly defrosted the buns and prepared some salad. The burgers were really yummy. We then sat around a really good fire until it was an ‘adulty’ time to go to bed (probably about 8pm!)

Cold Showers

Monday 5 June 2023 – Ellenbrae – Munurru

We wanted to make a fairly early start today as it’s probably the longest driving day on the Gibb so the aim was for about a 7.30am start.

We made it successfully to the Kalumburu Road turn off after an hour or so and stopped for a cuppa and toilet stop. The toilets are in the worst condition we have ever seen them – as someone said to Amanda “It looks like an abortion in there” and as the tanks are empty no water to wash away the carnage.

We continued on up the road and it was just as bad as we remember it being. Huge corrugations and no way to avoid them so that there are spells where you are forced to do 5km/h along the edge. We bumped our way into Drysdale Station just before 11am and filled the car with fuel and the van with water before heading over to the pub. Phone reception here so after ordering beers and burgers, I rang the kids to see how everything is going as it is a public holiday today so they were all home and having chill days. It is apparently very cold and wet in Perth which is crazy to hear when you are standing in shorts and a tank top in 33 degree heat and blue skies above.

Really yummy burgers and mango beers demolished it was back in the vans leaving the Adamsons to finish their lunch whilst we go a bit further up the road to fill the bags with firewood ready for our campfires at Munurru. It was hot work but reasonably quick work with Shaun’s chain saw quickly converting tree trunks into logs. Lots of cockroaches came running out of them though – eughh!

We had heard that the grader had recently done the section of road north of Drysdale and it was certainly eons better than the section south but still with a few rough patches. After one of these, Larry stopped to check the firewood bags hadn’t shifted and spilled and Shaun did the same only to discover he had a flat on one of his caravan wheels so, once again, all hands to the task of changing a tyre. A little bit easier because the tyre was on the back of the van and didn’t involve much grovelling underneath anything. A few cars tried to fly past but Jen’s job was to step out towards them as though to flag them down which meant they all did to see if we needed any help. Of course we didn’t and all Jen did as successfully slow them down enough not cover us in dust as they flew past. A couple of them were even told “No, but thanks for slowing down” so hopefully they get the message that going slowly past people standing on the side of the road so as not to cover them in dust is always the considerate thing to do. Anyway, now the Adamsons call me the “Lollipop Lady”!

Tyre changed we continued on to Munurru. L&J went across the King Edward river crossing first which is quite high and fast flowing this year and had Amanda a little worried. We crossed and radioed back to the others that it was fine and that we would stay and talk them across as it did pay to stay a little left on the rocks.

All 3 vans safely across and by the time we found a site suitable for 3 vans and cars and reasonably close to the toilet block it was getting towards dusk. Shaun got the campfire going and the jacket potatoes boiling ready for the coals. They were then consumed with garlicky chicken parcels and broccolini. Gee we eat well on these holidays.

After dinner and when Larry went to do the washing up it was discovered our hot water system had gone on the blink and Shaun and Larry spent some time trying to work out why to finally discover that all the capacitors had shaken loose from the circuit board. Nothing for it but for cold showers before bed but there was still a little warm water in the pipes and, as it is so warm at night here and the van retains heat, it wasn’t as bad as it sounds.

Early to bed as we have another big day tomorrow.

A Flat Day

Sunday 4 June 2023 – Home Valley to Ellenbrae

We weren’t that keen to hang around at Home Valley with which, it must be said, we have been a little disappointed. Can’t help feeling it’s being run with the bare minimum of maintenance etc which is disappointing given the rates they charge per night.

We left before 8am and headed on up to the lookout on the hill for a photo of the Pentecost and the Cockburn Ranges but the amount of smoke in the air and the sun in the east meant it was all a bit hazy for photos. A couple in their MDC XT17HR saw our vans and stopped in to join the MDC club and for a bit of a chat. He had had trouble with his fold our bed hinges collapsing on the Cape last year so that is something for Shaun to keep in mind with his fold out bed given the vibrations we will experience over the next couple of weeks.

We continued eastwards slowly but surely and after about an hour we found a gravel pit to pull into to let the suspension cool down and the others catch up. Shaun soon found us but we waited in vain for the others and couldn’t call them up on the radio. Worrying that something that happened to them we tried calling other cars to see if they had seen them on the road but to no avail. We decided that wasn’t much we could do sitting in the gravel pit so decided to continue on to Ellenbrae.

Just as we got to the top of the hill looking down to the Durack River crossing and were about to stop and take a photo the tyre pressure monitor alarm went off. Larry leapt out to see the rear right tyre of the car rapidly deflating so we leapt into the car and back up the hill to where there was, luckily, a truck rest stop with a nice flat area for tyre changing.

As we have never had to change a tyre on the Gibb before (and given this is our 5^th time crossing it was probably only a matter of time) and indeed never changed a tyre on the Cruiser before, it took a while to work out how to get the spare tyre off and where to put the jack etc. The others had all caught us up by this time and Shaun was able to help Larry with the heavy lifting of tyres and getting the ridiculously tight nuts off. This is why it’s handy to travel with others as between two or three cars/vans you usually have tools aplently to cover any sort of repair work.

The Adamsons continued on the Ellenbrae and after Larry and Shaun had finished rolling around in the dirt putting the deflated tyre back under the car, we followed on behind. We thanked our lucky starts for the tyre pressure monitors as the Durack River crossing is quite high and fast flowing and if we had plunged in there with a flat tyre we could have well and truly killed that wheel trying to scrabble through.

As it was we made it safely to Ellenbrae on the spare tyre where the Adamsons had already ordered us scones and jam and cream which we wolfed down as, with all of our delays, it was nearly lunchtime. After food and a rest we made our way down to Stringers camp and were still early enough that we could find a nice spot up the back around a campfire ring with enough space for the three vans. After setting up Larry then got the punctured tyre off from under the car and we found the split in the tread with the help of a little air and water to make the hole fizz. Larry had a go at fixing it with a plug but the angle meant it didn’t really plug all that well so we hefted the tyre into the car and took it back up to the station as they do tyre repairs there.

The guy had all the right tools so was able to spin the tyre off the rim and inspect the tear. At first he sounded unsure as to whether it was fixable but he was up to the challenge and so, in the end, it cost us $70 for the puncture repair versus $680 for a new tyre (he did have one in stock which matches our others so all good either way – just the price difference!)

The guys put the repaired tyre back on the car for us very quickly and efficiently (once again, so much easier with all the tools and gadgets) but left L to put the spare back under the car as they didn’t much fancy the grovelling under the car bit. L decided it would be much easier to do on their flat piece of concrete but realised he had left the tools back at the van so headed back there whilst J went back over to the shop to pay for the repair and to look at the souvenirs. L took a long time to come back and had J a little worried. Apparently the tyre monitor kept going off while L was driving back to the van and L was worried the guy had left too much air in the tyre so had checked it back at the van. In his hurry he had left the tyre pressure gauge on top of the tyre and then reversed over it and lost it in the grass and had spent some time trying to find it. He had left the others looking for it whilst he returned to do the spare tyre only to discover he had still left a bracket he needed behind.

A few choice words and another trip back to the van to retrieve it and to drop off Jenny who spent her time wandering around the campsite area looking for the tyre pressure gauge which the others hadn’t managed to find and also looking in places where Larry might have alternatively absent mindedly put it down. Not to be found unfortunately so did a bit of setting up of the van until Larry returned. He was puzzled because the monitor was taking readings of the tyre without any monitor on it which he found a bit strange so we had another look all over the car thinking it must be somewhere close to be taking readings but still no luck.

Jenny decided to have one last kick of the dry cut grass around the area L said he though the tyre had been and lo and behold turned up the monitor. A gleeful shriek of “I’ve found it!” and Jenny is in the good books and can’t be told off for the rest of the holiday!

Having everything finally sorted there wasn’t really time or inclination to go down to the waterhole so instead we got a cracking fire going and sat next to it chopping veggies for our camp oven meal. Last time we had a meal at Ellenbrae we cooked up beef, red wine and mushroom casserole which went down so well there were no leftovers and the same happened again tonight with Shaun having about 4 helpings and making clean up a breeze.

A full moon tonight so not much opportunity to look at the stars so it was some colour changing flame stuff on the fire and some staring at that and drinking Amanda’s fabulous mojitos followed by lots of red wine and chat.

Emma Gorge

Saturday 3 June 2023 – El Questro to Home Valley

Only a fairly short distance to travel today so there was time for a cooked breakfast and a leisurely pack up. Cooked breakfast consisted of French Toast to use up the last of the Turkish bread and Kununurra loaf and that was energy enough for a new plan to be hatched of driving the two vans straight to Emma Gorge and doing the walk straight up before it got too hot. Amanda and Aida were booked to go horse riding at El Questro this morning so we left them behind and we will meet up at Home Valley.

We drove slowly to Emma Gorge on the bitumen as the tyre pressures were still down but we were early enough that there was plenty of room in the caravan parking area to park our two vans. The boys headed off to do the walk just after 9am and Jenny decided, in order not to slow them down too much as there were plenty more creek and rock crossings to be done, just to stay at the Emma Gorge resort with a coffee, a book and a comfy chair and to enjoy a couple of hours of downtime.

The boys were back within a couple of hours so they had made good time. L had had a dip in the freezing cold Gorge water but Swampy had conveniently forgotten to wear any boardies and had to sit on the edge.

We left Emma Gorge around 11am and headed east eventually leaving the bitumen behind when we got to the Pentecost river crossing. Trundled across easily and before we knew it we were at the turn off to Home Valley Station. We haven’t been able to come here since 2016 as it was closed after changing management and then with Covid so was interesting to see how it’s changed.

An interesting system of booking for the riverside area where we camped previously with Ben and now there are apparently allocated riverside campsites and then a free for all behind those whereas previously the whole area had been a free for all. We had booked the allocated riverside bays last night and the first suspicion should have come when we checked in and were told we could just take any riverside sites we wanted in order to be together.

Of course when we got down to the river it was obvious that the whole campground was still a free for all with a whole lot of cars and tents parked up in our allocated bays so we just found space where we could and parked up next to each other. When the Adamsons arrived a bit later on they parked behind us to make a U Shape so all good.

We fired up the air fryer and a tasty lunch of party pies and chicken karaage bites was enjoyed. The Adamsons set off to the pool area but we were content to sit and watch the river and read our books. We were only a little dismayed to watch car after car arrive and cram into the space to the left of us and around the gazebo area. Probably a mistake to have parked so close to it but we had booked riverside spots and so had been determined to take the ones available.

We got a campfire going and sat watching the sun slowly set and the changing colours across the Cockburn Ranges. Quite a still night so lovely reflections across the Pentecost River and not long after the tide came rushing in and quite a strong flow.

Shaun’s yummy chicken curry for dinner with rice went down a treat and we then used up the last of the marshmallows on the fire for dessert. We then wandered down to the river’s edge with our torches to see if we could see any croc eyes reflecting in their light but didn’t see anything other than the popeyed mullet leaping around in the shallows of the rapidly rising river. Amazing how tidal the Pentecost river is.

A warm night but enough of a breeze to blow smoke from our fire straight into our caravan so a fairly unpleasant time trying to get to sleep with a closed up, warm van and lots of people talking and laughing nearby to deal with. Gave up trying to sleep and played on my tablet until about 11.30pm so a very late night by caravanning standards.

HMAS Swampy

Saturday 2 June – El Questro

We were a bit undecided about what to do first this morning but did decide on an early start. Hence we were all driving away from the vans just before 7.30am. A few people had suggested that Zebedee Springs can be packed early and quieter later in the morning so we decided to go to El Questro Gorge first.

The water crossing in is particularly high at the moment and can only be attempted with a snorkel. Swampy had very kindly offered to sacrifice his car to the cause hence the HMAS Swampy set sail across the river with only a few white knuckles on board. The first time I have ever heard water lapping against the doors of the car and one little dip in the road caused the water to come up over the bonnet which was exciting also. We made it safely across, though, and paused to let all the water drain out of the car and to inspect the car for water ingress. Only a little bit inside on the rubber mats so not too bad and we were the first into the car park for the Gorge that morning so we had the place to ourselves once again.

The Gorge was a bit trickier a walk than other times we have done it with the path regularly involving rock hopping across streams. Pretty much gave up and got my hiking boots and feet wet rather than risk slipping off a wet rock and falling and breaking something so it was a bit of a sloshy hike after that. Made it to the Halfway Pool (or in J’s case, nearly there as my knees were over the wobbly rocks by then) and decided that was far enough and then made the return journey to the car just as the sun was threatening to make its way into the Gorge and make hiking hot and unpleasant.

We ploughed back across the creek crossing a bit faster than on the way in and hence made a bit more of a bow wave and a little bit more water inside the car including inside the cupholder on J’s door which was interesting. We had met an El Questro guide and group coming into the Gorge as we were coming out who had told us how a tour bus had chewed the bottom up and made it slippy and I think Swampy was keen to get across before any such calamity occurred today.

We made it safely across, stopped once again to drain all the water out, then headed off to Zebedee Springs and got there just before 11am. We were delighted to see cars leaving as we drove in and were able to get a parking space close to the entry point. We were even more delighted to see numerous groups of people walking out as we walked in so that, for the 45 minutes or so that we were there, there were only a few different groups of people at the Springs and you could pretty much have an entire pool to your selves. The Adamsons were still there and Amanda encouraged us to climb up a waterfall to a lovely pool that they had found high up. We were content, however, having done our fair share of rock scrambling earlier, to just soak in the pools closest to our towels and not exert ourselves any further.

We vacated the pool about 11.45am and hence were just back at the carpark as the El Questro staff were going in to kick out the riff raff so that the homestead guests can have their private soaks in the afternoon. Back to the vans and a quick rinse under the shower and then we ate up the Kununurra loaf (still surpisingly fresh) with ham, cheese and tomato sandwiches. We had turned the airconditioner on as the van had been in the sun all morning and so it was only a short journey from table to bed for an afternoon nap.

The afternoon having been industriously spent examining the insides of our eyelids it was soon time to wander on up to the bar for afternoon drinkies followed by a nice meal from the Cantina. Larry and Shaun were disappointed that they couldn’t have burgers but consoled themselves with pizza and Mexican snack boxes. J also had the Mexican and it was very tasty with crisp tortillas and lashings of sour cream and guacamole with tasty chunks of beef and a fresh salad. Very nice.

A couple of drinks at the bar and then back to the vans for nightcap or two as well as a game of Harry Potter Uno (has interesting cards like the 9 and ¾ card which enables you to swap your hand for any other person’s hand meaning you can go from only having one or two cards to suddenly a handful again. We basically managed to prove that we are all competitive and ruthless souls before we realised that the CP had gone quiet around us and it was probably time for bed.

Start of The Gibb

Thursday 1 June 2023 – Kununurra to El Questro

We had aimed to leave Kununurra at 8.30am but, as we were ready a little earlier than the others, we made a diversion back into town so that we could buy more cereal as the one box we had bought didn’t look like it would last two weeks on the Gibb.

Caught up with Shaun on the road out of town and we drove out to the Gibb River Road turnoff where we stopped for the obligatory photo next to the sign and Swampy added a sticker to the collection.

Mission accomplished and having received a text that the Adamsons were only just leaving the CP, we moseyed on along the road towards El Questro. We took it easy over the many flood ways, some of which still have some water in them, but were soon at the El Questro turnoff where we stopped to let our tyre pressures down and let past a hire car who wanted to go flat chat and cover us in a layer of dust – no letting tyres down for them – hope they get a puncture and, as another curse we read somewhere recently, their beers go warm.

A couple more river crossings on the road in than we remember and we actually saw the mythical El Questro grader albeit just driving along and not actually grading anything. Having said that, there were patches of decently graded road which was nice. We crossed the main river crossing into the village with ease and checked in. Nice powered sites on grass and away from the tightly packed sites and once we had got the sprinklers turned off we were able to park up. Bit tight to get into from the road as there are trees on either side of the site so luckily there was no one parked behind us and we were able to drive in from there.

The Adamsons turned up not long after and we were able to guide them in using the same technique and then sit down to PB & J sandwiches as we need to eat the Kununurra loaf while it is still fresh.

Quite a few places, such as Moonshine Gorge, Branco’s lookout, Explosion Gorge etc are still closed this season, we presume because of high water levels and washed away roads over the wet season, so we decided to just stay put in the village for the afternoon. We put swimming attire on and headed down to the swimming hole behind the steakhouse where we braved the water and sat there with drinks thinking of all the adjectives to describe the icy cold water when people came over and asked what is was like in.

Once we had gone all pruney it was back to the vans and then up to the showers for a rinse off and to wash my hair. After sitting and chatting for a while we decided we may as well head up to Pigeon Hole lookout to watch the sunset and so left camp about 3.30pm in order to get up there and getting a parking spot for the cars and a parking spot for our butts on one of the benches before the hordes arrived.

It was lovely up there and between the 3 groups of us we managed a pretty good cheese platter to go with our drinks and then happily chatted with each other and other groups until the sun went down. It was then an exciting trip back to the CP in the dark with visibility fairly poor due to dust clouds hovering over the road. J told L to slow down to which he replied “I’m only doing 25!” to which Jen replied “then do 20!!”. Safely back to camp though and we cooked up bbq beef brisket with Turkish bread and coleslaw and then had a lovely evening sitting around the vans and chatting.

Went to bed with the drone of the generators in the background which I thought would keep me awake until they didn’t.

Parry's Creek

Wednesday 31 May – Parry's Creek

Another lazy lie this morning as, once again, nothing particularly planned other than to make sure we got the grocery shopping down so that we are fully stocked for the Gibb.

We headed into town mid morning to do just that firstly stopping at the butcher for thick scotch fillet steaks for tonight but where we also bought bacon and two dozen eggs before getting to Coles seemingly at peak hour. Much busier than yesterday – not sure why it should be so at 11am on a Wednesday? The main concern was that all the salad and vegetable packs had ‘best before’ dates of today or tomorrow on them so not sure how well they will last for 2 weeks on the Gibb. Oh well, once they get too limp it will just have to be frozen veg.

Another quick stop at the bakery and it was getting on for midday by the time we got back to the vans so we pretty much threw the cold stuff into the fridges and left the rest sitting on the table to deal with later.

We then piled back into Shaun’s car and drove out to Parry’s Creek Resort for lunch and the place is looking very nice and there were quite a few camping in their little caravan park. Definitely an option for those wanting to stay somewhere a bit closer to the end of the Gibb or to check out Wyndham but not actually stay there.

The boys had tasty lamb rolls and Jen had pork belly kebab and rice which was very tasty albeit a bit grisly. The boutique beers were pronounced passable enough to drink but not to buy a case of and, suitably sated, we hopped back in the car and had a drive around the resort to check out water levels in the creek etc. Once again, it was interesting to see it now having seen photos from only a month or so ago where the road in was a quagmire after heavy rains.

We then drove out to check out the Old Telegraph Station and then down to the lagoon with the hide where, in 2016 and with much lower water levels, we had spotted numerous crocs lying on the far bank. The water levels are that much higher this year that almost the entire walkway from the carpark to the hide had water underneath and there was an absolute abundance of birdlife but no crocs. Well none that we could see anyway – not to say they weren’t lurking just under the surface of the water covered in water lilies and ducks.

We sat in the hide for ages just enjoying the serenity and the birdlife being lucky to have the whole place to ourselves. Shaun had his binoculars so we could get a close up view of a heron wrestling a cane toad before finally swallowing it and then standing there awkwardly with a giant lump in its throat. Never expected it would actually try and eat it!

Having had our fill of nature we headed back to Kununurra where the final cases of ‘just in case’ beer were purchased and cars refuelled ready for the start of the next part of our adventure tomorrow. Steak and salad consumed in front of the State of Origin rugby courtesy of Shaun’s telly and Starlink and Queensland got the win so that’ll keep Shaun happy for the next couple of weeks. As both the Eagles and Carlton are rubbish at the moment I don’t think Larry or Darryl will be desperate to watch the AFL this weekend so the telly might stay off on the GRR!

A bit of a pack up tonight as we had got a fair amount out of the cupboards over the last few days of being in one place. Then showers and bed.

LarryJen

Bungle Bungle NP