Awesome day On The Lake

 

Monday 29 May 2023 – Lake Argyle

Up early this morning and heading off by 8am so as to get out to Lake Argyle by 9am in time for our booking on a BBQ pontoon boat.  The Esky full of ice was soon full of beer and wine but not so full with Shaun’s newly acquired steak for the barbie which was back at the caravan.  Not to worry, as we had bought a family sized pack of sausages as had the Adamsons.

We puttered off onto the lake having had our briefing from the lovely Lucas (from near Paris – great to see all the backpackers back working in the Kimberley – two years ago in Covid times it was a much less international workforce).  There was a bit of a stiff breeze so we found a sheltered spot and tried a bit of fishing (no luck) and then puttered around the edge of the lake taking shelter from the easterly.

By the middle of the day the wind had dropped and we parked up next to the Jump Off rock (Instagram famous apparently) and braved the water.  A few even braved the Jump Off and had a bit of a competition to see who could make the biggest splash (Shaun won!).  Jenny was content to bob around on one of the fat pool noodles provided but the breeze meant getting pushed away from the boat so it took my best swan impersonation to get back to the barge (ie a calm appearance top half and frantic kicking underneath to move forward!)

It was quite nice in the water and although the others had been terrified about being bitten by crocodiles it wasn’t as though the water was teeming with them.  In fact we probably only saw about half a dozen lying around on the banks all day.  Interesting to see that the much higher water level this year means that the banks are all a bit steeper than when we were here in 2016 when the lower levels and flatter banks were much more conducive to sunbathing for crocs.

We found another sheltered bay and anchored up and got the barbie happening.  In the end we just oped for a sausage sizzle with bread and onions and sauce and the salads stayed in the esky.  One small disaster with a rogue gust of wind blowing L’s bbq tool bag overboard and we watched it slowly sink to the bottom of the dam despite Shaun’s heroic efforts to hook it on the end of fishing line (for heroic read useless!)

Another couple of hours pottering around the lake and the kids were ecstatic to get a go at driving the boat with the big kids encouraging them to drive donuts and go really fast (Arthur’s face was picture of concentration at high speed despite there being exactly no change of hitting anything within a 5 mile radius). 

We called it a day by 3.30ish to give us time to drive around the dam wall and check out the surrounds before getting back to Kununurra before dark.  Jenny on driving duties as the boys had worked their way through the esky and there was only 10 seconds of panic driving as the setting sun right in my eyes meant not really being able to see the road at all.  Oh well, at least the boys would have died happy clutching their beers!

We made it safely back to the vans and after showers to sober up, it was heated up homemade minestrone soup for dinner.  That made up for a lack of vegetables at lunch time so we could go to bed feeling virtuous and very satisfied that the day had lived up to expectations.

                                                                            

Back To Wyndham Town

 

Sunday 28 May – Wyndham

A more relaxed start to the day meant time for coffee in bed followed by pancakes for breakfast. Interesting cinnamon donut flavour – interesting but not sure would buy again.  The convoy left the CP around 9ish and headed along the road to Wyndham with the Benders hitching a ride with Shaun.  We stopped off to check out the Grotto where the young and the young at heart braved the 144 steps down to the pool at the bottom whilst us oldies sat at the top and watched, waved and “Kooyee’d”.   We were rewarded for our laziness by having a close up encounter with a rock wallaby who hadn’t realised we were sitting quietly on a nearby rock.

Back in the cars and Shaun dropped us off at Paul and Deb’s where we spent a happy couple of hours chatting and catching up.  Shaun piled into the other car and they headed off to check out the Moochalabra Dam, nearby rock art paintings and the prison boab tree.  After our good natter, we took Shaun’s car and headed down to the Croc Cafe and Bakery for a yummy pie (J had beef, L tried the garlic barramundi) and a jam donut.  The others weren’t far behind us and also indulged in pies and other bakery treats.

We then headed up the Five Rivers lookout for the good view of old Wyndham town and port as well as the five rivers.  It truly is a spectacular vista up there.

As Darryl realised that having a long range fuel tank doesn’t mean that you don’t actually have to put fuel in occasionally, and then realised Wyndham is probably the only town in Australia where you can’t actually get fuel on a Sunday, we curtailed our sightseeing and drove very economically back to Kununurra.  A quick stop at Coles for BBQ meat and salads for tomorrow then back to the vans for a leisurely late afternoon/evening with blogging (J) and motorcross watching (S&L) followed by salmon and steak cooked on the barbie down by the lake.  I think when we planned this meal we imagined having it whilst watching the sunset over the lake but, of course it getting dark by 5pm here, our 6.30pm dinner was done by torchlight and complete darkness.  Still lovely though.

                                                                            

Yeehaa Rodeo Time

 

Saturday 27 May 2023 – Bungles to Kununurra

We knew we had to tackle the long road out first thing this morning so we were up early and leaving camp just before 7.30am.  The road out seemed easier as we knew what to expect and probably took better lines through the creek crossings this time although we noticed quite large holes were already forming from the tour buses going in and out and we are thinking they will probably have to fill a few holes in sooner rather than later before someone gets stuck in one.  Shaun was in front this time so we got some good dashcam footage of him with only one crossing where he found a hole and made his van do a spectacular bounce.

We met up with the Adamsons at the rest stop back at the bitumen around 9.30am and then we all convoyed up the road to Warnum where we stopped at the roadhouse for morning tea where we once again met up with Matthew and his tour group.  Probably the last we will see of them as they are now off to Lake Argyle and we will be in Kununurra. 

Jenny drove from Warnum up to the intersection with Victoria Highway where we stopped to drop off the rubbish we had been unable to leave at the Spring Creek rest stop as the bins were absolutely overflowing. It’s okay for DPAW to tell you to take all your rubbish out of Purnululu and take it to this rubbish spot but probably they need to liaise with Shire of W-EK to ensure the bins are emptied regularly if that is the case as there is nothing worse than overflowing bins and people thinking they might as well just leave theirs on the ground next the bins is a good idea.  The crows etc were having a field day.

Onwards to Kununurra and we set up on our waterfront campsites which are completely up the other end from the sites we had with H&M two years ago.  Still a great view of the lake albeit with slightly more vegetation screening it and the Adamsons, who are down the other end, say our end is a bit quietier.  We had a quick lunch and a trip into town for beer supplies as Swampy is a bit stressed about beer supplies for the Gibb then back to the vans for laundry etc before getting ready for our exciting evening.

We got out to the rodeo about 5ish and set up our picnic rug on the grassy bank around the ring and in the family area.  Shaun and Darryl headed off to the beer tent but the queues looked horrendous and we were happy to stay where we were and drink soft drink and watch the show.  The professionalism got better as the evening went on so that the riders stayed on for longer as well – towards the beginning the young riders were lucky to make it out of the gates before hitting the dirt.

The most terrifying part of the night was just after we had all been lulled to sleep at the halfway point when a dozen or so bootscooters made their way into the ring and kicked up the dirt for 10 minutes or so. They then invited the kids in the crowd to join them and be taught a simple dance.  Just after they had about 100 kids and a few Mums and Dads in there starting their dance, a bull managed to get through a gate and career into the ring and straight through the kids.  Amanda and Aida were in the ring and Larry was down on the edge filming them on Amanda’s phone so covered the footage of the mayhem that ensued as people scattered in all directions grabbing kids and throwing them over the fence and out of danger.  Absolute chaos and they we will be very lucky if no one was seriously hurt.  We did see a couple of small kids getting carried off to the ambulance and another was called so there were injuries but hopefully not too serious. 

The most amazing thing was that the compere completely ignored what had happened.  There was no calming words or directions on where kids who had got separated from parents should go if they were lost and they just started talking about what was next on the programme.  Was a bit poor really and it will be interesting to find out if there is any fall out from the incident.  I can only imagine their insurance premiums might be a bit higher next year!

We were starting to get a bit cold and tired and so headed off about 8.30pm so that we would also miss the crowds all trying to leave at 9pm when the rodeo finished.  The boys thought the beer tent was also getting a bit too rowdy with a giant bonfire having been lit and pizza boxes getting flung on it to make it twice as big as intended. 

We got back to the vans and figured we would be lie in bed listening to the sound of the music at the rodeo after party floating across the lake to us but it lulled us to sleep pretty quickly and certainly didn’t disturb us at all.  Not even the sound of other returning cars woke us and a good night’s sleep was had once again.

                                                                            

Bungles Doesn't Dissapoint

 

Friday 26 May 2023 Bungle Bungles

We all slept really well as it was so quiet and peaceful with only the sound of the wind rustling in the trees and the occasional bird chirp to disturb our slumber.  We were still awake early though but enough time for a cooked breakfast and a bit of blogging before setting off about 8am for the southern end of the National Park.

We got to Picaninny carpark and walked in to Cathedral Gorge. Matthew and his Kimberley Explorers tour group were coming out as we were going in so we stopped for a quick chat as he had to get his guests off to their helicopter flights. We got in to Cathedral Gorge just as the APT tour group were walking out which was awesome timing as we meant we had the whole place to ourselves which just made it so lovely and we could get lots of photos of it with nobody in them or, if anybody, only us.  Amazing how a single footfall on the pebbles reverberated so that it sounded as though 100 people were following behind.

As we headed out the Adamsons were heading in so a quick chat to them to compare trips in on the windy road (they have left their van out at the rest stop on the highway so made it in a bit more quickly than we had) and left them to explore the Gorge.  They were with another family they have befriended along the way so the Cathedral will be a bit noisier than our experience. 

Already mid morning it was heating up as we walked across the rocky river bed to the lookout and we were happy to get there and get a couple of selfies to prove we were there and then head back to the cars.  Last time we were here Larry left a lens cap at the lookout and had to do the walk twice. Suffice to say he was careful not to leave anything behind this time!

We had a cuppa back at the picnic area in the carpark and admired the view of the beehives and then L & S did the quick Domes walk whilst J minded the stuff and chatted to the Adamsons and other tourists as 7000 steps already covered was enough for one morning.  Once the boys were back it was beers and ciders in the car on the way back to the vans where we set the airfryer to work and cooked up curry puffs (leftover from Kate’s 21^st) and karaage chicken for lunch.  It was great to have a fancy lunch in the middle of nowhere but it seemed particularly difficult to get motivated after it to go hiking again.

Still lots to see though so we piled back into the Hilux and headed north up to check out Echidna Chasm.  Once again met Matthew and crew coming out as well as the Adamsons so lots of people to say hello to as we made our way up the rocky riverbed.  Still amazing to be in the chasm with the difference in temperature from the sunshine to the deep shade and the tiny patch of blue sky so high up.  Sat on the thoughtfully provided benches and enjoyed the surroundings whilst the boys climbed up over the rockslide at the end of the chasm then it was time to wend our way back to the car.

We had planned to try the Mini Palms gorge walk as well but worked out that by the time we finished it would be dark and by now our legs were telling us that they had probably gone far enough for one day, thanks very much, so we headed back to the vans.  We entertained brief thoughts of going to the nearby lookout to watch the sunset but reading that it involved a Category 3 walk 500m uphill to get to the lookout we wimped out and headed to the van for feet up and gin and tonics instead.  Lamb chops and salad for tea and then the boys managed to knock off half a bottle of spiced rum (L says it was a thin bottle in case you are judging him!)

                                                                                

                                                                        

The Winding Road

 

Thursday 25 May Larrawa to Bungles

A good night’s sleep for Larry as he had left Darryl to be Shaun’s drinking buddy last night and hence didn’t suffer the effects of too many beers followed by too many ports.

We headed off just after 8am whilst the Adamsons were a bit behind us as they were chatting to a family they had met previously on the road.  The road started heading north east from Larrawa and an hour or so later we were heading into Halls Creek.  It hasn’t really improved any as a tourist destination so it was a matter of fuel up and get the hell out of Dodge.

We arrived at Spring Creek rest stop just after 11am so plenty of time to make up chicken and salad sandwiches, using up the rest of the chicken from the pasta bake.  The Adamsons pulled in just as were packing up and letting down tyres so a quick chat with them.  They are staying here this afternoon/evening as their van is too big to take into the Bungles so they will have a relaxing afternoon and meet up with us in Bungles tomorrow. 

It was a long and slow drive for the two intrepid vans into the Bungles as the road is steep and windy at the best of times and currently there are numerous (at least 20) creek crossings to traverse which made it exciting (and only a little stressful).  The only casualty was one D shackle as Shaun’s hitch is a bit lower for the stabiliser bars and a couple of the creek crossings had rocks and holes to bump into.

We were glad to make the visitor centre and check in and then made our way to Kurrajong camp which we were surprised to find fairly empty.  In fact they had only opened the first loop of the 4 camping areas which contains 45 campsites and probably by the evening only a dozen of these at the most had any one in them.

So a quiet and relaxed afternoon/evening was had and as we only had to heat up pre-prepared spag bol for dinner where we free to sit and relax until deciding 8.30pm was an acceptable time to retire to our vans for hot showers, books and bed.

                                                                                

Nature Does What Nature Wants

 

Wednesday 24 May Broome to Larrawa Station

We were all up early and on the road just before 7am so there was time to grab a coffee from the roadhouse whilst dropping the amenity block key off. We drove east across the base of the Dampier Peninsula and across the section of newly restored road which was destroying in the January flooding of the Fitzroy River.  Amazing to think how high the water must have got to take out the road as it quite raised above the level of the plain.  They are now in the process of making a temporary road to the side so they can bituminise the road base but the gravel road was smooth and well watered and we were soon passing through Willare.

We continued on and turned right onto the Great Northern Highway and stopped for morning tea under the big boab at, you guessed it, the Boab rest stop.  Tea and fruit cake consumed, we continued onwards and started heading south-east towards Fitzroy Crossing listening to Sam Neill’s autobiography which is very entertaining.  Never knew he was christened Nigel!

We refuelled in Fitzroy Crossing and then took the diversion around to the newly constructed causeway with the bridge at FC also having been taken out in the January floods. The water level of the river crossing is now much lower than the causeway but, once again, amazing to think that only a month or so ago, having just completed this temporary causeway there was more rain and the river level rose up again and washed the top of the newly constructed road base away.  Don’t think that will be happening again anytime soon though.

We drove around to the public viewing area near the Fitzroy River Lodge and walked down to the viewing point where you can see them demolishing the old bridge (only the old pylons left now) and, in the future, will be able to view the construction of the new, improved and much stronger bridge.  Amazing to think that the area we walked down into to see the bridge viewing area would have all been well under a raging torrent only a few months ago.  That river certainly does rise!!

We did our bit for the local economy by stopping in at the Fitzroy River Lodge for a drink and lunch (Larry even tried salt and pepper crocodile strips) and then back on the road for another hour and a half or so until we reached the bottom of the loop from Derby to Kununurra on the Great Northern Highway which happens to be at Larrawa Station.

The first of the gate openings for Jenny and we made our way into camp, following the signs, and set up around a big campfire ring.  Nothing for it after that but to set up and then sit down with beers etc waiting for the Adamsons to arrive.  They got there just on dusk (which is starting to be about 5pm now) and we had already got the campfire going and the apricot chicken bubbling away so we were all able to sit around the campfire about 6pm and enjoy dinner and a chat.

Marshmallows for dessert and Shaun put some Colour Change Flames on the fire to entertain the kids (big and small) and we sat around the fire and chatted and Jenny got to try out her newly acquired torch finding her way to bed.

                                                                                

Matso's

 

Tuesday 23 May 2023

A sleep in and cooked breakfast was the go as we had a day in Broome to experience. Mid morning we sorted out the back of the car so we could take three and headed to Broome, where we parked in Chinatown. Did a few touristy things like Streeters Jetty, then learnt about the pearl farming history at Cygney Bay Pearls where Shaun was equally as impressed at the cost of a single big pearl. They have a completed the improvements to the town in this area as last time there was a lot of landscaping and road works happening. Shaun took a photo of the Roebuck Bay Pub as his father had asked to send him the pic as he had spent time in Broome in the 1960s. Went to the book shop as that is what we do each time and Larry is sorted with his trip book. Camping store, Bunnings and Clark Rubber visited and items purchased for the trip and off we went to our Matso’s Brewery booking.  The boys thought being early wouldn’t be a bad idea as they only hold your table for 15 minutes after the reservation time and losing the table would have been a disaster!!

Mango beer was in order as it had warmed up a bit and we had to rehydrate as we waited for Darryl, Amanda and the kids. They walked in on time and after introductions we proceeded to have a very enjoyable lunch with lots of chatting to get to know each other. Shaun thought it was a good idea to have more Mango beer and Larry thought that was a very good idea.  As Jenny was on driving duties and had to switch to water she consoled herself with dessert being chocolate éclair with Ferrero Rocher chocolate icecream.   Yum.

After our long lunch we said our goodbyes until tomorrow and went to Woolies for some fresh food, water and a few things we couldn’t find in the van. That sorted we took up the opportunity to visit the liquor store. A block each for Larry and Shaun as there are restrictions, a bottle of port for Shaun as the one we had last night was perilously low and back to the vans to pack away the bounty.

A few housekeeping chores done and a sit down was in order as Shaun was cooking chicken pasta bake which went down a treat.   No leftovers is always a good sign!  A port nightcap and off to bed as we are on the road tomorrow for a transit day to through Fitzroy Crossing to Larrawa Station tomorrow night.

                                                                        

Steak Didn't Disappoint

 

Monday 22 May 2023

Having told Shaun that if we made good time this morning we would have time to visit Moontide Distillery this afternoon we were packed up and moving by 7.30am.  A quick drive up the road to Sandfire Roadhouse meant we pulled straight into the bowsers with no queue – a vastly different experience from when we went past here in the other direction a couple of years ago!  Topped up with fuel and purchased one of their home made sausage rolls – a gift, shall we say, that kept on giving all morning!

Drove onwards and upwards with a quick toilet break at a 24 hour rest stop and by late morning we heading across the big flood plain just south of Broome where the road was completely under water in January this year.  There’s still a few lakes of water nearby with lots of birdlife and plenty of fat, contented looking cows wading through knee deep grass so the rains certainly make a difference up here.

We made Roebuck Plains Caravan Park before midday and parked up in adjoining sites under a big shady tree.  Only a quick set up as we wanted to get to ‘The Mango Place’ for lunch and it is only open between 10am and 2pm.  We were there by about 12.45pm so were able to sit and relax and enjoy beef and mango pies washed down with cold mango smoothies.  Yummo and the green lush garden made Shaun feel as though we are finally getting to the tropics.

Feeling sated we moseyed on down the road to the Moontide Distillery where we were happy to do a tasting of gins we already knew we liked and also a new one since we were last here.  We then sat down under a shady tree in the garden with a tasting paddle each and shared a cheeseboard and thought (but only briefly) of our dear friends and family and their days at work versus our lovely holiday time.

Feeling suitably smug we brought ourselves back to earth by realising that although on holiday there is still work to be done so back to the caravans for some laundry and maintenance work before getting back into holiday mode with chairs and books under our big shady tree.  Before we knew it, it was time to wander over to the roadhouse for the requisite steak and garlic sauce – 4 trips down we’ve had it and it is still as good as ever.  In fact, none of things we have talked up today – the mango smoothies, the white pearl gin or the thick tender steaks have disappointed so we haven’t led Shaun a bum steer yet (which probably is a good thing seeing he has put a lot of faith in us to organise a good trip for us all).

Back to the vans for a couple of ports and a bit more chat before showers, blogging and bed.

                                                                            

I Like To Have Beer With Shaun

 

Sunday 21 May 2023

Having gone to bed so early the night before we were both awake by 5am even though we had both been sure to turn off our alarms from the day before so we didn’t have to!  It was fine though as we just opened the blinds and lay there watching the sun slowly come up and knowing that the first real day of holiday was ahead of us.

L eventually got up and made coffees and after a quick breakfast of cereal we were packed up and on the road by 7am.  We knew that both Pardoo Station and Pardoo Roadhouse were wiped out by Cyclone (can’t remember the name) but we had forgotten how far apart those two places are (over 50km) and it was obviously by the leafless trees and bent road signs that all the spaces around and between those two places had felt the force of the 200km plus winds.  We pulled over to see the total devastation that is Pardoo Roadhouse and it looks like they have just given up on it and packed up and left as it was desolate and no signs of any work being done to repair.  We overheard one truckie nearby saying that they had been underinsured – not sure if that is the case?

                                                                            

Hugely windy and a strong headwind as we made our way north so we were glad to not have to drive too far with poor fuel economy today and arrived at Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park just after 9am.  It’s now a G’day Parks caravan park that takes bookings so we will remember that for on the way back but we were able to get a member discount and site next to Shaun so all good.

Shaun was happy to see us and we did a quick set up and the boys were cracking their first beers of the trip just before 10am.  Tcchh!  (Jen had a cup of tea).  Sat and yarned for an hour or so and we then jumped in S’s car for a cruise up the beach.   Howling a gale on the beach and the water was very choppy so pretty hopeless for fishing so we were glad we hadn’t bothered although there were a few highly optimistic types trying to fling lines out into the water. 

We turned back when Shaun suddenly realised he was low on fuel and his jerry cans were back at the van so we headed back there and cooked up toasties for lunch whilst S made up a yummy cheese platter.  Food and a few more beers consumed and suddenly the beds in the vans looked very tempting so it went pretty quiet for an hour or so.

                                                                     

  

    

J then went up the lovely hot showers to wash her hair (had left it all week as I had been to the hairdresser and wanted to show L whilst it was all blow dried straight and with no grey!) then back to the van to sit around but definitely not to watch any of the horrifically putrid Eagles versus Hawthorn game.  Honestly, every week I think the Eagles have gone as low as they could possibly go only to be surprised that there is a bottom even lower than rock bottom.  Surely heads will roll now,  interesting times ahead.

Before we knew it the sun was starting to set so we walked down to the beach and across the sand and out as far across the low tide sand as we could before we started sinking into the slush.  Was an awesome sunset and took lots of photos and then walked up and sat on the sand until the last of the golden glow started to disappear.

                                                                         

       

Back to the van for honey soy chicken on the BBQ and a big salad and then some more chatting, some blogging, some reading and some bed.

 

Oops I Did It Again

 

Saturday 20 May 2023

Jenny did a Larry this morning catching the 7am flight to Newman which meant getting up at 5am in the pitch dark having already been awake before the alarm stressing about whether it would go off and whether I would wake up for it.  No worries though and I was ready and waiting outside for Rami (L’s regular taxi driver) who turned up on the dot of 5.30am.  Out to the airport just before six so enough time to grab and coffee and sit down amongst a sea of yellow and orange high viz dressed men and women and watch the sky slowly lighten. 

A bit of a trek from Gate 17a across the covered tarmac highway to where the fleet of Airlink airbuses are past and then a quick dash across the tarmac in the cold morning air to the plane.  Nice short and smooth flight where I managed to watch about half of “Red Notice” whilst consuming a small ham and cheesy egg baguette for breakfast.

No Larry at the terminal to greet me but he had turned up by the time I had pulled my phone out to ring him – the airport was much busier than usual for Saturday and hence had taken him longer to park – and we were soon in the work ute and heading back to the units.  L left me there and headed back to work and, after dumping some stuff in the unit, I took the Cruiser and headed off to Woolies for the last minute fresh food shopping. 

Back to the units where I did the usual failing at spatial awareness skills in trying to fit two bags of groceries into already well stocked fridges and cupboards and, not long afterwards, L managed to finally escape his much busier than expected Saturday morning at work and get back to the unit to change and pack the last of his stuff into the car and van.

We hit the road out of Newman just after 11am and then drove north for a couple of hours until just before Auski roadhouse a truck flicked up a small stone and “SMACK” into the front window it went and a Larry saw two little star shaped cracks appear.  Not only was this incredible bad luck and enough to piss anyone off so early in the trip, combined with the fact the windscreen had also been chipped between Perth and Newman and just been replaced four days earlier, Larry justifiably just about blew his top.

We bought some hot chips (to console ourselves) and Supaglu (to console the windscreen) at Auski and did some repair work where L managed to cut his leg which topped things off nicely.  Last time where were at Auski at the beginning Jen tripped in the carpark and fell and bruised her leg so maybe we won’t come here again.

We continued north and L did some emotional eating of a packet of pillow biscuits but the remainder of the trip was uneventful and although plenty more road trains went past there were no more stones flicking up.  We had thought about trying to get to Eighty Mile Beach to catch up to Shaun but had kind of had enough of the day and by then it was getting near 5pm so we just drove to De Grey campsite which is as far as we normally make it from Newman and found a spot towards the back and away from most people just as the sun was setting.

We quickly made dinner (the usual De Grey offering of salad and squid rings) and then decided 8am was a reasonable time to go to bed and, after dropping our books on our faces a couple of times, lights out and fast asleep by 8.30.