Back Roads of Britain

Thursday 7 September 2017

We had planned to have a cooked breakfast down at Tilly’s tea rooms and we had checked that they were open at 9am the evening prior.  Packed up our room/s and headed down there about quarter past and it looked pretty closed to us and no movement inside so nothing for it but to get in the car and head for the hills.  Literally.  We took the road north-west out of Castleton which goes straight up a narrow pass.  We then wandered along the back roads of the Peaks District on either B roads or no grade at all roads through some very pretty countryside.  Although not blazing sunshine this morning it was reasonably bright and not raining so a very pleasant drive.

We arrived in Buxton about quarter to ten and I knew from my research that the Pavillion Gardens had a tea room so we headed there for a late breakfast.  Unfortunately that didn’t open til 10am but there was a farmer’s market in a marquee nearby so we investigated that.  Lots of cheese tastings (a very interesting Cheshire cheese with gin and lemon), chocolates, breads and sausages and at the furtherest end a man selling all sorts of interesting sounding scones.  He was selling them in little takeaway bags with a small pottle of clotted cream and jar of strawberry jam with plastic knife and napkin.  He was also selling a variety of interesting sounding carbonated juices (mine was orange and grapefruit with lemongrass) – job done – instant breakfast!   We found a nearby bench in the park and tucked in whilst watching squirrels and ducks and were soon joined by some little black birds (let’s just say they were blackbirds) who were very interested in our crumbs.

Feeling very smug that we had happened across such a great breakfast (although probably not the healthiest one!) we hopped back in the car and took off south on back roads again.  We were planning on heading towards Dovedale and doing a walk near Ilam but Larry’s hip and my knee have been playing up a bit and although the weather was fine(ish) we felt that we weren’t properly equipped or motivated for a hike so decided to continue on to Ashbourne instead.  This was a very cute little town with lots of gay bunting festooned around.  We parked up and headed down to the famous Ashbourne Gingerbread shop but they didn’t do take away coffees and the array of gingerbread goods was extremely disappointing so we ended up grabbing up a coffee from a nearby cafe and heading on.

After subjecting Larry to castles and stately homes it was time for Larry to choose where to go and he had spotted a Daimler/Rover museum down near Coventry so we decided to head there.  The only problem being that the museum on my 2005 AA road maps is no longer there and we eventually worked out that the whole thing had been incorporated into the Transport Museum in the centre of Coventry in 2012.  Never mind, we were nearly there, so headed into Coventry.  Well that was easier said than done.  Coventry is surrounded by a giant ring road which was filled with construction and cordoned off lanes and broken down cars.  When we did finally find the right exit we didn’t find the entry into the car park so ended up back on the ring road again.  Had to loop and circuit and head back and this time we found the carpark entry and, thankfully, a space in it.  I think we both just sat in the car and let out a huge sigh of relief after that ordeal!

For all that effort, it must be said that the Coventry Transport Museum is well worth a visit.  Not only is it free, but it has a very good layout and it runs you through the history of road transport from penny farthings to bicycles to early cars and motorcycles and then on to commercial vehicles including army vehicles, buses, caravans and then finishes with a couple of the ‘cars’ that have set the land speed record and one that has broken the sound barrier when it set the current land speed record.  You can even see where the jet engines have burnt the paintwork off the sides.

Most of the cars on display were constructed in factories in and around Coventry.  I never realised that this was such a centre for car construction in the 20^th century (not so much now of course).  Hillmans, Daimlers, Jaguars, Austins, Triumphs and so on.  Lunch at the cafe there and then time to head further south.

We had time for an hour or so at Kenilworth Castle which was owned by Robert Dudley at one stage.  He built a whole extra wing for when Elizabeth I came to visit on her summer progress and she must have liked it (or him) as she stayed for a record 19 days.  I feel sorry for the actors who came all the way from Coventry to do a play for her but she was too busy dancing to bother looking out the window to watch so they were sent away for a couple of days until she felt like watching them.  Unfortunately all the demonstrations of wealth and affection didn’t do Robert any good in terms of winning Elizabeth’s hand and apparently he never really used the castle again after that.  In the 1600’s the castle was pretty much pulled apart during one civil war or another and has been a ruin ever since.  Still, I much prefer this type of castle where you can wander around where you please and stand in empty rooms and try to imagine what it would have been like all those hundreds of years ago.  And there is a certain intrigue in being there all on your own and thinking that you are standing exactly where a queen might have been standing, looking out the same window and seeing the same (well, almost) view.

Left at closing time and down some further back roads (surprisingly the GPS took on us on these rather than the dual carriageways she normally prefers) and before we knew it we were amongst the golden stoned buildings of the Cotswolds and then driving down the gorgeous main street of Chipping Campden.  Found the Red Lion and a car parking space at the rear and checked in.  The Red Lion is a Grade II listed building and we can imagine that we are probably in a room that someone would have stayed in when it was a coaching inn (although pretty sure the ensuite is newer!).  Rested up for a while and then went to explore the high street of Chipping Campden.  There are some beautiful old houses and some are all saggy with age but they are all still inhabited and well cared for and, judging by the cost of them in the real estate window (most are around 700,000 pounds) they are probably pretty well furnished inside also.

Headed back to the Red Lion for dinner.  I had my first curry of the holiday which came with yummy naan bread and Larry had lamb shanks all washed down with Larry’s favourite Carlings beer and a yummy somerset cider for Jenny.