A Leap Of Faith

30th August 2017

Best night’s sleep we’ve had all trip as we could actually have the window ajar and so the room wasn’t so stuffy and we could actually snuggle under the doona instead of lying on top of it.  Yummy breakfast at 8am served on Wedgewood china and tablecloth on the table so quite posh.

We don’t have a super long drive today so we did quite a few stops.  First was to Queen’s view lookout – either named after Queen Victoria, who visited here, or Queen Isabella, wife of Robert the Bruce, who lived here.  Either way, a very spectacular view and the sun was even shining! 

A couple of miles on and we were back out of the car at the Killiecrankie Visitor centre and heading down the side of the hill to find the Soldier’s Leap and then continued even further down until we could walk along the edge of the river Garry and underneath the railway viaduct.  We walked as far as we felt we needed or wanted to but not having a map with us and not being sure just how far the path would keep going, we retraced our steps.  By the time we got back up to the visitor centre (gasp!) it had opened so we could educate ourselves a little more about the battle that was fought here and why the English soldier made his famous leap across the river.

Continued onwards to Blair Castle.  We were just going to look at it from a distance but the canny wee lady was stalking unwary visitors in the driveway and before we knew it we had bought tickets to view the castle and grounds.  It actually ended up being very interesting and the baronial entry hall with its wood panelling and decorative displays of broadswords, swords, pikes and rifles was certainly very impressive.  As was the number of staghorns lining the passageways!  Out of the windows we could see a number of cross country jumps in the fields and one of the castle attendants told us we were lucky to be here this week as last week had been very busy and crowded because the Blair Castle International Horse Trials had been on.  I would have liked to be here for that but perhaps just as well we are here a week later when it’s quieter and at least I could see the cross country course and the trampled earth and if there had been any casualties they’ve been scraped up by now.

We contemplated lunch in the castle cafe but decided to push on for the House of Bruar and, as it was only a few minutes up the road, we didn’t have long to wait.  I see what Margaret means about it being weird having a fancy department store in the middle of nowhere.  We avoided the cashmere and tweed shops, the nursery selling heather plants and the giant hall selling gourmet foodstuffs and headed straight to the restaurant/cafe where we purchased soup, sandwiches and hot chips.  A pity we weren’t here for morning or afternoon tea time as the selection of cakes looked very inviting but were full from what we had so missed out.

Next stop was Ruthven barracks which is the only place we have been, so far, where there is no fee to park and no fee to trample all over the ruined 18^th century building.  The building was burnt down by the Jacobites in the 1700s but before then housed hundreds of English soldiers.  It’s right on top of a hill and although each room has a fireplace it still looks like a pretty grim place to suffer a Scottish winter.  We had the whole place to ourselves and it was a bit surprising as it really is quite a spectacular ruin.

Our plan for the rest of the afternoon was to visit the Highland Safari Park but, whilst we had a reasonable idea of where it was, we failed to see any signs for it and eventually worked out that they had all been removed due to current road works so that the place has either closed down or had to take a break as literally no one can get to them currently unless by helicopter.  Having that plan thwarted we headed on to check out Aviemore and, seeing signs to the Cairngorn Brewing company we thought we’d check that out.  Although there was a group there doing a tour, the shop was otherwise empty and the girl behind the counter was quite happy to pull us a few sample ales (including their famous Sheepshaggers lager) and chat to us about Scotland and Australia.  She would like to visit Australia but is a bit worried about all the creepy crawlies especially spiders, snakes and lizards so of course Larry calmed her fears by introducing her to bungarras.  You should have seen her face when she saw the photo of one on Google!  She forgave us enough, though, to give us directions to nearby Loch Morlith which she promised would give a spectacular aspect across to the Cairngorns.  It was certainly very pretty but by now it had clouded over and was quite chilly so, although there were some stout hearted Scottish kids cavorting in the shallows nearby, we were not at all tempted.

Back in the car and another short drive found us in Carrbridge which is our destination for tonight.  We checked in to the Fairwinds Hotel then settled into the lounge for a complimentary whiskey or sherry and a spot of internet.  We eventually dragged ourselves out again and walked down into the village to the Cairn hotel (pub) for a drink (another variety of Scottish gin for Jenny, beer for Larry) and then dinner of Haggis Lasagne for Jenny (just couldn’t resist seeing what haggis lasagne would be like and glad I did – it was really yummy) and beef and ale pie for Larry.  His was very good too apparently.

There was an Australian couple sitting next to us and they recommended the riverside walk as an after dinner digestive so we finished our day with a half hour walk past the old Packhorse bridge, along the river, back over it via a suspension bridge and the Carrbridge carriage driving horses and then through the forest and past the cemetery (really?  A wood AND a cemetery in the evening light??) and back to our hotel.

Time to put the feet up, have a cuppa and write the blog before bed.